I don't really like ears on
my eights, since the make the eight larger without really adding
anything. Some people think that ears keep the eight from locking
off in a girth hitch. I have three points against that. First,
if so, why are the ears in the wrong place? To see what I mean,
look at the DMM Anka,
which has the small ears placed in the right place. Second, if
you rig the eight properly, it is almost impossible for the girth
hitch to occur. Finally, even if it does, releasing it is trivial
- if you have the rest of your gear set up properly and know what
you are doing.
I get rather annoyed by the large number of badly-designed eights on the market. Instead of just copying each other, manufacturers ought to show some innovation. Look at the Morph 8 - now there is a new idea! It has its problems, but at least it shows some attempt at innovation. My own Open Eight is another innovative example, as is Tom Mayer's Lazy 8. The DMM Anka and the Faders Ballet have the right idea on where the ears should be. The Famau and Job are old exceptions that also put the ears in the right place.
If you want a good laugh, look at the weights of some of these
eights!
More thoughts and data on Figure Eights with Ears
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| ID | Device | Description | Acquired | Weight | Height | Width | Thickness | Std. volume |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1225 | Ace |
Forged, hard anodized, bent, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, low ears | Katie Jo Miller, 2009 | 93 | 109 | 80 | 19 | 164 |
| 1141 | Advanced Base Camp | Milled, soft anodized, round rope & lightening holes, lunar eye | Kris Steele, 2008 | 242 | 174 | 171 | 13 | 378 |
| 936 | Aircraft Materials Ltd. | Milled, soft anodized, triangular ears, round top hole and eye | eBay, 2004 | 231 | 173 | 122 | 13 | 264 |
| 1149 | ASR Rescue 8 | Milled, soft anodized, subtriangular body, trapezoidal top hole and subtriangular eye | Alan Leach, 2008 | 273 | 162 | 162 | 13 | 339 |
| 922 1094 |
AustriAlpin Eight Special | Milled, hard anodized, blended triangular ears, oval to D top hole, triangular eye |
Barrabés.com, 2003 AustriAlpin USA, 2007 |
101 | 114 | 95 | 10 | 108 |
| 1157 | Blitz Safety 8 | Milled, hard anodized, subhexagonal rope hole, long slot eye, side ears | Tim Nolan, 2008 | 205 | 179 | 101 | 13 | 231 |
| 552 | BlueWater Rescue 8 | Forged, hard anodized, oval rope & lightening holes, lunar eye | GearPro, 1999 | 216 | 171 | 149 | 16 | 408 |
| 925 | Calma Antibloc | Forged, soft anodized, twin-bar shank, low ears, round holes | Barrabés.com, 2003 | 143 | 151 | 109 | 15 | 242 |
| 1158 | Climbing Technology Ltd. | Forged, soft anodized Al, lunar rope holes, oval eye, belay slot | We're Not Scared Safety, 2008 | 246 | 172 | 172 | 16 | 463 |
| 311 | CMC Rappel 8 | Milled, soft anodized, round rope hole, large vertical oval eye | Bob & Bob, 1990 | 158 | 132 | 140 | 13 | 240 |
| 309 | CMC Rescue 8, Version A | Forged, unfinished, steel, round rope hole, large vertical slot eye | L&S Sporting Goods, 1989 | 635 | 168 | 167 | 14 | 393 |
| 310 | CMC Rescue 8, Version B | Forged, painted, steel, round rope hole, large vertical slot eye | Bob & Bob, 1989 | 624 | 168 | 167 | 14 | 393 |
| 1027 | CMC Survivor 8 | Milled, hard anodized, triangular ears, round holes | CMC, 2007 | 44 | 73 | 71 | 10 | 51 |
| 314 1153 1154 |
CMI Rescue 8 | Forged, hard anodized, oval rope & lightening holes, lunar eye |
? Lisa Ward (2), 2008 |
219 | 167 | 151 | 17 | 429 |
| 1170 | CT? | Forged SS, Lunar rope hole, D eye, Pentagonal aux. hole | Derek Nichols, 2008 | 536 | 171 | 160 | 12 | 329 |
| 316 | DMM Anka | Forged, unfinished, 90 degree twist | Bob & Bob, 1987 | 188 | 142 | 84 | 47 | 561 |
| 1172 | Eiger RP100 | Forged, polished, oval rope and aux. Holes, lunar eye | Andrew Knoflicek, 2008 | 197 | 172 | 150 | 13 | 332 |
| 927 | Faders Ballet |
Forged, hard anodized, bent, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, low ears | Barrabés.com, 2003 | 84 | 108 | 80 | 19 | 84 |
| 317 | Famau, Version A | Forged?, unfinished, bent, rectangular rope hole /w spike, round eye | Pathfinder Sports, 1979 | 203 | 154 | 79 | 41 | 499 |
| 1061 | Famau, Version B | Forged, unfinished, bent, rectangular rope hole /w spike, round eye | Craig Kubanoff, 2007 | 211 | 153 | 80 | 46 | 559 |
| 1140 | Fusion | Forged, soft anodized Al, lunar holes, belay slot | Yi-tien Tuan, 2008 | 260 | 171 | 171 | 16 | 455 |
| 319 | Handley Cool 8, Thin-walled | Welded 9.8 mm. thin-walled stainless steel tubing, unfinished, irregular holes | B&C Wunderwear, 1991 | 108 | 158 | 164 | 19 | 492 |
| 320 | Handley Cool 8, Thick-walled | Welded 9.8 mm. thick-walled stainless steel tubing, unfinished, irregular holes | B&C Wunderwear, 1991 | 173 | 126 | 141 | 19 | 338 |
| 1007 | Hugh Banner | Forged, unfinished, side T horns, round rope hole, auxiliary hole, and eye | Koen Viaene, 2006 | 149 | 123 | 116 | 13 | 181 |
| 595 | Hugh Banner Safety "8," Version A | Forged, unfinished, hexagonal rope hole, sewn 19mm x 3mm attachment sling | Cormier Mountaineering, 2001 | 156 | 145 | 108 | 13 | 199 |
| 1032 | Hugh Banner Safety "8," Version B | Forged, unfinished, hexagonal rope hole, trapezoidal eye | Christopher Wanless, 2007 | 140 | 141 | 109 | 13 | 193 |
| 564 | Interalp/Camp Job, Version A | Forged, unfinished Al, Oval rope hole, round eye, irregular slot, four lateral ears | Dirk Stoffels, 2000 | 199 | 171 | 100 | 34 | 581 |
| 1103 | Interalp/Camp Job, Version B | Forged, unfinished Al, Oval rope hole, round eye, irregular slot, four lateral ears | The Outdoor Outpost, 2007 | 199 | 174 | 100 | 34 | 581 |
| 933 | ISC | Milled hard anodized, oval rope & lightening holes, lunar eye | Marc Savinac, 2003 | 208 | 170 | 147 | 13 | 312 |
| 1022 | Kong | Forged stainless steel, round holes, belay slot | Barry Duncan, 2006 | 446 | 140 | 129 | 16 | 285 |
| 561 | Kong Big "8" (805.04) | Forged, plated steel, lunar holes, belay slot | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 | 787 | 171 | 170 | 17 | 494 |
| 562 | Kong Big "8" (805.05) | Forged, unfinished SS, lunar holes, belay slot | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 | 822 | 171 | 170 | 17 | 494 |
| 563 | Kong Big "8" (805.06) | Forged, soft anodized Al, lunar holes, belay slot | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 | 265 | 171 | 170 | 17 | 494 |
| 1108 | Krok 8 Ear | Milled, painted, side T horns, round holes | PetrenkoWorld, 2007 | 139 | 151 | 99 | 10 | 154 |
| 1109 | Krok Inv Aluminum | Milled, painted, side T horns, round holes | PetrenkoWorld, 2007 | 126 | 132 | 109 | 10 | 149 |
| 1110 | Krok Inv Steel | Welded 10 mm. rod, side T horns, subrounded holes | PetrenkoWorld, 2007 | 287 | 149 | 108 | 10 | 166 |
| 1144 | Krok SQU-EAR | Milled, painted, side T horns, pentagonal rope hole, round eye | gear4rocks.com, 2008 | 115 | 118 | 99 | 9 | 109 |
| 981 | Lazy 8 | Milled, offset irregular rope hole, oval eye, noncommercial | Tom Mayer, 2005 | 82 | 104 | 72 | 10 | 74 |
| 1205 | Mad Rock Small Rescue 8 | Forged, hard anodized, bent, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, low ears | Mad Rock, 2009 | 91 | 109 | 80 | 19 | 84 |
| 1097 | Mizo Jet Man Big | Forged 7071-T5, unfinished, side T horns, round rope hole, auxiliary hole, and eye | Mizo, 2007 | 145 | 122 | 116 | 13 | 177 |
| 1098 | Mizo Jet Man Small | Forged 7071-T5, unfinished, side T horns, round rope hole, auxiliary hole, and eye | Mizo, 2007 | 105 | 114 | 110 | 10 | 123 |
| 1099 | Mizo Jet Man Sus | Forged SS, unfinished, side T horns, oval rope hole, round eye | Mizo, 2007 | 467 | 136 | 121 | 14 | 237 |
| 532 | Morph 8 | Milled, unfinished, asymmetrical, one ear, noncommercial | Ben Schwartz, 1997 | 151 | 146 | 65 | 13 | 123 |
| 952 | Morph 8 Prototype | Milled, unfinished, asymmetrical, one ear, noncommercial | William Shrewsbury, 2004 | 144 | 146 | 67 | 13 | 124 |
| 322 | Munter Egg Mark 3 | Cast, unfinished, D rope hole, Rectangular eye, 4 round & 2 arced lightening holes | Eiselin Sport, 1982 | 219 | 181 | 124 | 10 | 224 |
| 583 | New England Micro Rappel Device | Forged steel, round rope hole, two rectangular eyes | Gearshop.com, 2000 | 150 | 92 | 52 | 10 | 46 |
| 904 | Petzl Pirana | Forged unfinished Al, asymmetric, three horns | Karst Sports, 2001 | 96 | 115 | 76 | 15 | 130 |
| 1021 | PMI Steel Rescue 8 | Milled steel, round rope hole, pear eye | On Rope 1, 2006 | 663 | 170 | 158 | 13 | 344 |
| 1114 | Quechua | Milled Al, irregular rope hole, oval eye, small ear nubs | Matthew Collings, 2007 | 91 | 122 | 75 | 10 | 92 |
| 935 | Rappel Rescue Systems Pro-Pak, Version A | Forged Al, hard anodized, partitioned oval rope hole, round eye, vertical ears, for kevlar webbing. | Alan Shelby, 2004 | 294 | 191 | 86 | 16 | 255 |
| 1215 | Rappel Rescue Systems Pro-Pak, Version B | Forged Al, hard anodized, partitioned oval rope hole, round eye, vertical ears, for kevlar webbing. | Centurion Surplus, 2009 | 299 | 189 | 84 | 17 | 266 |
| 514 | Rappel Wheel, Version A | Forged & cut by hand from MS part 22940, soft anodized, 2 ears | Para-Gear (blank), 1995 | 356 | 150 | 150 | 16 | 360 |
| 515 | Rappel Wheel, Version B | Forged & cut by hand from MS part 22940, soft anodized, 4 ears | Para-Gear (blank), 1995 | 356 | 150 | 150 | 16 | 360 |
| 1132 | Rescue Q | Milled, hard anodized, round rope hole, subtriangular eye, side ears | Mark Hopkins, 2007 | 239 | 194 | 120 | 13 | 293 |
| 551 | Rescue Systems Inc. | Forged Steel, oval rope hole, sound eye, short belay slot, asymmetrical | On Rope 1, 1999 | 672 | 162 | 149 | 19 | 459 |
| 326 | Rock & Rescue | Milled, soft anodized, round rope & lightening holes, lunar eye | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1991 | 231 | 174 | 169 | 13 | 382 |
| 328 | Russ Anderson, Version A | Milled, soft anodized, round holes | ca. 1981 | 191 | 159 | 135 | 13 | 279 |
| 329 | Russ Anderson, Version B | Milled, soft anodized, round holes, slot | Speleoshoppe, 1982 | 177 | 159 | 135 | 13 | 279 |
| 334 1156 |
Russ Anderson, Version C | Milled, soft anodized, drooped ears. round rope hole, D eye |
Bob & Bob, 1987 Donley Safety, 2008 |
195 | 155 | 133 | 13 | 268 |
| 335 1142 |
Russ Anderson, Version D | Milled, hard anodized, drooped ears. round rope & lightening hole, D eye |
Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1989 Dana D. Sandefur, 2008 |
184 | 155 | 133 | 13 | 268 |
| 336 | Russ Anderson, Version E | Milled, unfinished, steel, dropped ears, irregular rope hole, quarter circle eye | 1980s? | 648 | 180 | 161 | 13 | 377 |
| 1159 | Russ Anderson, Version F | Milled, hard anodized, dropped ears, irregular rope hole, quarter circle eye | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2008 | 226 | 180 | 163 | 13 | 369 |
| 342 | Russian, Version A | Milled, soft anodized, tie-off horns, round holes | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1994 | 140 | 134 | 108 | 12 | 174 |
| 473 | Russian, Version B | Milled, unfinished, two separate side horns, round holes | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990 | 86 | 98 | 82 | 11 | 88 |
| 492 | Russian, Version C | Milled, soft anodized, side T horns, round holes | John E. Weinel, Inc., early 1990s. | 64 | 85 | 79 | 11 | 74 |
| 523 | Russian, Version D | Milled, unfinished, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, two manufacturing holes | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1996 | 111 | 134 | 74 | 12 | 119 |
| 965 | Russian, Version E | Milled, soft anodized, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 111 | 135 | 105 | 10 | 139 |
| 966 | Russian, Version F | Milled(?) steel, painted, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 330 | 147 | 125 | 10 | 184 |
| 967 | Russian, Version G | Milled, soft anodized, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 81 | 98 | 85 | 10 | 83 |
| 968 | Russian, Version H | Milled, painted, round rope hole & eye | Ural Sport, 2004 | 79 | 94 | 81 | 10 | 78 |
| 969 | Russian, Version I | Milled steel, painted, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 297 | 132 | 109 | 10 | 147 |
| 970 | Russian, Version J | Forged, painted, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 172 | 153 | 98 | 13 | 193 |
| 971 | Russian, Version K | Forged, painted, side T horns, oval rope hole, round eye | Ural Sport, 2004 | 189 | 155 | 115 | 15 | 259 |
| 972 | Russian copy of Petzl Pirana | Milled unfinished Al, asymmetric, three horns | Ural Sport, 2004 | 81 | 123 | 77 | 10 | 93 |
| 586 | SBCI
Amigo Bailout 8 |
Milled, soft anodized, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye | On Rope 1, 2000 | 143 | 120 | 92 | 13 | 142 |
| 531 | SBCI Banditt | Milled, soft anodized, belay slot at top, lunar rope hole & eyes, round lightening hole | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1997 | 321 | 180 | 173 | 13 | 405 |
| 902 | SBCI Sidewinder | Milled, hard anodized, oval rope hole, long slot eye, side ears | Luke's, 2001 | 290 | 194 | 108 | 13 | 273 |
| 949 | Single Rope Technique R8B | Milled, hard anodized, Normal & low ears (for longhorning), round holes | On Rope, 2004 | 296 | 172 | 92 | 17 | 262 |
| 570 | Single Rope Technique R8Ba | Milled, hard anodized, low ears (for longhorning), round holes | Single Rope Technique, 2000 | 281 | 172 | 92 | 16 | 258 |
| 569 | Single Rope Technique R8La | Milled, hard anodized, truncated circular rope hole, belay slot, D eye | Single Rope Technique, 2000 | 311 | 176 | 159 | 17 | 462 |
| 568 | Single Rope Technique R8Sa | Milled, hard anodized, oval rope hole, D eye | Single Rope Technique, 2000 | 157 | 135 | 119 | 12 | 195 |
| 585 | SMC Personal Escape 8 | Milled, soft anodized,triangular rope hole, round eye | On Rope 1, 2000 | 48 | 72 | 70 | 10 | 49 |
| 344 | Smith Safety Products, Version A | Milled, hard anodized, drooped ears, round rope hole /w inner nubbins, round eye | ? | 211 | 168 | 150 | 13 | 328 |
| 958 1129 |
Smith Safety Products, Version B | Milled, unfinished, stainless steel, round rope hole & eye |
N. Lester, 2004 Chris Christensen, 2007 |
614 | 166 | 152 | 13 | 320 |
| 1040 | Smith Safety Products, Version C | Milled, chrome plated steel, round rope hole & eye | George Stehle, 2007 | 618 | 167 | 155 | 12 | 321 |
| 1123 | Smith Safety Products, Version D | Milled, chrome plated steel, round rope hole & eye | Chuck Hoffmann, 2007 | 224 | 168 | 154 | 13 | 326 |
| 1199 | Smith Safety Products, Version E | Milled Al, hard anodized, round rope hole & eye | Gerard Scholler, 2009 | 193 | 160 | 136 | 13 | 280 |
| 343 | Spelean Harpoon | Forged, unfinished, low ears (for longhorning), round holes | Speleoshoppe, 1979 | 286 | 168 | 89 | 17 | 254 |
| 507 | Stubai | Milled, hard anodized, blended triangular ears, oval to D top hole, triangular eye | Speleoshoppe, 1995 | 104 | 114 | 95 | 10 | 108 |
| 347 | TZ eight | Milled, unfinished, stainless steel, Rectangular rope hole, long clip slot | B&C Wunderwear, 1993 | 488 | 128 | 88 | 14 | 158 |
| 1031 | Unknown | Milled, hard anodized, oval rope hole, belay slot, round eye, side ears | eBay, 2007 | 215 | 176 | 100 | 13 | 227 |
| 916 | Ural Alp (20.01) | Welded 10 mm. steel rod | Ural Sport, 2002 | 252 | 123 | 90 | 10 | 111 |
| 948 | Ural Alp (20.03) | Welded 10 mm. steel rod, painted, crosspiece | Ural Sport, 2004 | 300 | 123 | 117 | 10 | 144 |
| 987 | Ural-Alp (20.05) | Welded 10 mm. steel rod, painted, top post | Ural Sport, 2005 | 289 | 148 | 80 | 10 | 123 |
| 961 | Ural-Alp Self-Braking Descender/Belay Device, Version B | Two bent Ni-plated Al sheets screwed together, sub-rectangular rope hole, round eye, ears | Ural Sport, 2004 | 88 | 137 | 70 | 27 | 259 |

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