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Figure Eights With Ears

I don't really like ears on my eights, since the make the eight larger without really adding anything. Some people think that ears keep the eight from locking off in a girth hitch. I have three points against that. First, if so, why are the ears in the wrong place? To see what I mean, look at the DMM Anka, which has the small ears placed in the right place. Second, if you rig the eight properly, it is almost impossible for the girth hitch to occur. Finally, even if it does, releasing it is trivial - if you have the rest of your gear set up properly and know what you are doing.

I get rather annoyed by the large number of badly-designed eights on the market. Instead of just copying each other, manufacturers ought to show some innovation. Look at the Morph 8 - now there is a new idea! It has its problems, but at least it shows some attempt at innovation. My own Open Eight is another innovative example, as is Tom Mayer's Lazy 8. The DMM Anka and the Faders Ballet have the right idea on where the ears should be. The Famau and Job are old exceptions that also put the ears in the right place.

If you want a good laugh, look at the weights of some of these eights!

Gallery

ID Device Description Acquired Weight Height Width Thickness Std. volume
1225 Ace
Forged, hard anodized, bent, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, low ears Katie Jo Miller, 2009 93 109 80 19 164
1141 Advanced Base Camp Milled, soft anodized, round rope & lightening holes, lunar eye Kris Steele, 2008 242 174 171 13 378
936 Aircraft Materials Ltd. Milled, soft anodized, triangular ears, round top hole and eye eBay, 2004 231 173 122 13 264
1149 ASR Rescue 8 Milled, soft anodized, subtriangular body, trapezoidal top hole and subtriangular eye Alan Leach, 2008 273 162 162 13 339
922
1094
AustriAlpin Eight Special Milled, hard anodized, blended triangular ears, oval to D top hole, triangular eye Barrabés.com, 2003

AustriAlpin USA, 2007
101 114 95 10 108
1157 Blitz Safety 8 Milled, hard anodized, subhexagonal rope hole, long slot eye, side ears Tim Nolan, 2008 205 179 101 13 231
552 BlueWater Rescue 8 Forged, hard anodized, oval rope & lightening holes, lunar eye GearPro, 1999 216 171 149 16 408
925 Calma Antibloc Forged, soft anodized, twin-bar shank, low ears, round holes Barrabés.com, 2003 143 151 109 15 242
1158 Climbing Technology Ltd. Forged, soft anodized Al, lunar rope holes, oval eye, belay slot We're Not Scared Safety, 2008 246 172 172 16 463
311 CMC Rappel 8 Milled, soft anodized, round rope hole, large vertical oval eye Bob & Bob, 1990 158 132 140 13 240
309 CMC Rescue 8, Version A Forged, unfinished, steel, round rope hole, large vertical slot eye L&S Sporting Goods, 1989 635 168 167 14 393
310 CMC Rescue 8, Version B Forged, painted, steel, round rope hole, large vertical slot eye Bob & Bob, 1989 624 168 167 14 393
1027 CMC Survivor 8 Milled, hard anodized, triangular ears, round holes CMC, 2007 44 73 71 10 51
314
1153
1154
CMI Rescue 8 Forged, hard anodized, oval rope & lightening holes, lunar eye ?

Lisa Ward (2), 2008
219 167 151 17 429
1170 CT? Forged SS, Lunar rope hole, D eye, Pentagonal aux. hole Derek Nichols, 2008 536 171 160 12 329
316 DMM Anka Forged, unfinished, 90 degree twist Bob & Bob, 1987 188 142 84 47 561
1172 Eiger RP100 Forged, polished, oval rope and aux. Holes, lunar eye Andrew Knoflicek, 2008 197 172 150 13 332
927 Faders Ballet
Forged, hard anodized, bent, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, low ears Barrabés.com, 2003 84 108 80 19 84
317 Famau, Version A Forged?, unfinished, bent, rectangular rope hole /w spike, round eye Pathfinder Sports, 1979 203 154 79 41 499
1061 Famau, Version B Forged, unfinished, bent, rectangular rope hole /w spike, round eye Craig Kubanoff, 2007 211 153 80 46 559
1140  Fusion Forged, soft anodized Al, lunar holes, belay slot Yi-tien Tuan, 2008  260 171 171 16 455
319 Handley Cool 8, Thin-walled Welded 9.8 mm. thin-walled stainless steel tubing, unfinished, irregular holes B&C Wunderwear, 1991 108 158 164 19 492
320 Handley Cool 8, Thick-walled Welded 9.8 mm. thick-walled stainless steel tubing, unfinished, irregular holes B&C Wunderwear, 1991 173 126 141 19 338
1007 Hugh Banner Forged, unfinished, side T horns, round rope hole, auxiliary hole, and eye Koen Viaene, 2006 149 123 116 13 181
595 Hugh Banner Safety "8," Version A Forged, unfinished, hexagonal rope hole, sewn 19mm x 3mm attachment sling Cormier Mountaineering, 2001 156 145 108 13 199
1032 Hugh Banner Safety "8," Version B Forged, unfinished, hexagonal rope hole, trapezoidal eye Christopher Wanless, 2007 140 141 109 13 193
564 Interalp/Camp Job, Version A Forged, unfinished Al, Oval rope hole, round eye, irregular slot, four lateral ears Dirk Stoffels, 2000 199 171 100 34 581
1103 Interalp/Camp Job, Version B Forged, unfinished Al, Oval rope hole, round eye, irregular slot, four lateral ears The Outdoor Outpost, 2007 199 174 100 34 581
933 ISC Milled hard anodized, oval rope & lightening holes, lunar eye Marc Savinac, 2003 208 170 147 13 312
1022 Kong Forged stainless steel, round holes, belay slot Barry Duncan, 2006 446 140 129 16 285
561 Kong Big "8" (805.04) Forged, plated steel, lunar holes, belay slot Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 787 171 170 17 494
562 Kong Big "8" (805.05) Forged, unfinished SS, lunar holes, belay slot Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 822 171 170 17 494
563 Kong Big "8" (805.06) Forged, soft anodized Al, lunar holes, belay slot Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 265 171 170 17 494
1108 Krok 8 Ear Milled, painted, side T horns, round holes PetrenkoWorld, 2007 139 151 99 10 154
1109 Krok Inv Aluminum Milled, painted, side T horns, round holes PetrenkoWorld, 2007 126 132 109 10 149
1110 Krok Inv Steel Welded 10 mm. rod, side T horns, subrounded holes PetrenkoWorld, 2007 287 149 108 10 166
1144 Krok SQU-EAR Milled, painted, side T horns, pentagonal rope hole, round eye gear4rocks.com, 2008 115 118 99 9 109
981 Lazy 8 Milled, offset irregular rope hole, oval eye, noncommercial Tom Mayer, 2005 82 104 72 10 74
1205 Mad Rock Small Rescue 8 Forged, hard anodized, bent, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, low ears Mad Rock, 2009 91 109 80 19 84
1097 Mizo Jet Man Big Forged 7071-T5, unfinished, side T horns, round rope hole, auxiliary hole, and eye Mizo, 2007 145 122 116 13 177
1098 Mizo Jet Man Small Forged 7071-T5, unfinished, side T horns, round rope hole, auxiliary hole, and eye Mizo, 2007 105 114 110 10 123
1099 Mizo Jet Man Sus Forged SS, unfinished, side T horns, oval rope hole, round eye Mizo, 2007 467 136 121 14 237
532 Morph 8 Milled, unfinished, asymmetrical, one ear, noncommercial Ben Schwartz, 1997 151 146 65 13 123
952 Morph 8 Prototype Milled, unfinished, asymmetrical, one ear, noncommercial William Shrewsbury, 2004 144 146 67 13 124
322 Munter Egg Mark 3 Cast, unfinished, D rope hole, Rectangular eye, 4 round & 2 arced lightening holes Eiselin Sport, 1982 219 181 124 10 224
583 New England Micro Rappel Device Forged steel, round rope hole, two rectangular eyes Gearshop.com, 2000 150 92 52 10 46
904 Petzl Pirana Forged unfinished Al, asymmetric, three horns Karst Sports, 2001 96 115 76 15 130
1021 PMI Steel Rescue 8 Milled steel, round rope hole, pear eye On Rope 1, 2006 663 170 158 13 344
1114 Quechua Milled Al, irregular rope hole, oval eye, small ear nubs Matthew Collings, 2007 91 122 75 10 92
935 Rappel Rescue Systems Pro-Pak, Version A Forged Al, hard anodized, partitioned oval rope hole, round eye, vertical ears, for kevlar webbing. Alan Shelby, 2004 294 191 86 16 255
1215 Rappel Rescue Systems Pro-Pak, Version B Forged Al, hard anodized, partitioned oval rope hole, round eye, vertical ears, for kevlar webbing. Centurion Surplus, 2009 299 189 84 17 266
514 Rappel Wheel, Version A Forged & cut by hand from MS part 22940, soft anodized, 2 ears Para-Gear (blank), 1995 356 150 150 16 360
515 Rappel Wheel, Version B Forged & cut by hand from MS part 22940, soft anodized, 4 ears Para-Gear (blank), 1995 356 150 150 16 360
1132 Rescue Q Milled, hard anodized, round rope hole, subtriangular eye, side ears Mark Hopkins, 2007 239 194 120 13 293
551 Rescue Systems Inc. Forged Steel, oval rope hole, sound eye, short belay slot, asymmetrical On Rope 1, 1999 672 162 149 19 459
326 Rock & Rescue Milled, soft anodized, round rope & lightening holes, lunar eye John E. Weinel, Inc., 1991 231 174 169 13 382
328 Russ Anderson, Version A Milled, soft anodized, round holes ca. 1981 191 159 135 13 279
329 Russ Anderson, Version B Milled, soft anodized, round holes, slot Speleoshoppe, 1982 177 159 135 13 279
334
1156
Russ Anderson, Version C Milled, soft anodized, drooped ears. round rope hole, D eye Bob & Bob, 1987

Donley Safety, 2008
195 155 133 13 268
335
1142
Russ Anderson, Version D Milled, hard anodized, drooped ears. round rope & lightening hole, D eye Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1989

Dana D. Sandefur, 2008
184 155 133 13 268
336 Russ Anderson, Version E Milled, unfinished, steel, dropped ears, irregular rope hole, quarter circle eye 1980s? 648 180 161 13 377
1159 Russ Anderson, Version F Milled, hard anodized, dropped ears, irregular rope hole, quarter circle eye Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2008 226 180 163 13 369
342 Russian, Version A Milled, soft anodized, tie-off horns, round holes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1994 140 134 108 12 174
473 Russian, Version B Milled, unfinished, two separate side horns, round holes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990 86 98 82 11 88
492 Russian, Version C Milled, soft anodized, side T horns, round holes John E. Weinel, Inc., early 1990s. 64 85 79 11 74
523 Russian, Version D Milled, unfinished, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, two manufacturing holes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1996 111 134 74 12 119
965 Russian, Version E Milled, soft anodized, side T horns, round holes Ural Sport, 2004 111 135 105 10 139
966 Russian, Version F Milled(?) steel, painted, side T horns, round holes Ural Sport, 2004 330 147 125 10 184
967 Russian, Version G Milled, soft anodized, side T horns, round holes Ural Sport, 2004 81 98 85 10 83
968 Russian, Version H Milled, painted, round rope hole & eye Ural Sport, 2004 79 94 81 10 78
969 Russian, Version I Milled steel, painted, side T horns, round holes Ural Sport, 2004 297 132 109 10 147
970 Russian, Version J Forged, painted, side T horns, round holes Ural Sport, 2004 172 153 98 13 193
971 Russian, Version K Forged, painted, side T horns, oval rope hole, round eye Ural Sport, 2004 189 155 115 15 259
972 Russian copy of Petzl Pirana Milled unfinished Al, asymmetric, three horns Ural Sport, 2004 81 123 77 10 93
586 SBCI Amigo Bailout 8
Milled, soft anodized, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye On Rope 1, 2000 143 120 92 13 142
531 SBCI Banditt Milled, soft anodized, belay slot at top, lunar rope hole & eyes, round lightening hole John E. Weinel, Inc., 1997 321 180 173 13 405
902 SBCI Sidewinder Milled, hard anodized, oval rope hole, long slot eye, side ears Luke's, 2001 290 194 108 13 273
949 Single Rope Technique R8B Milled, hard anodized, Normal & low ears (for longhorning), round holes On Rope, 2004 296 172 92 17 262
570 Single Rope Technique R8Ba Milled, hard anodized, low ears (for longhorning), round holes Single Rope Technique, 2000 281 172 92 16 258
569 Single Rope Technique R8La Milled, hard anodized, truncated circular rope hole, belay slot, D eye Single Rope Technique, 2000 311 176 159 17 462
568 Single Rope Technique R8Sa Milled, hard anodized, oval rope hole, D eye Single Rope Technique, 2000 157 135 119 12 195
585 SMC Personal Escape 8 Milled, soft anodized,triangular rope hole, round eye On Rope 1, 2000 48 72 70 10 49
344 Smith Safety Products, Version A Milled, hard anodized, drooped ears, round rope hole /w inner nubbins, round eye ? 211 168 150 13 328
958
1129
Smith Safety Products, Version B Milled, unfinished, stainless steel, round rope hole & eye N. Lester, 2004

Chris Christensen, 2007
614 166 152 13 320
1040 Smith Safety Products, Version C Milled, chrome plated steel, round rope hole & eye George Stehle, 2007 618 167 155 12 321
1123 Smith Safety Products, Version D Milled, chrome plated steel, round rope hole & eye Chuck Hoffmann, 2007 224 168 154 13 326
1199 Smith Safety Products, Version E Milled Al, hard anodized, round rope hole & eye Gerard Scholler, 2009 193 160 136 13 280
343 Spelean Harpoon Forged, unfinished, low ears (for longhorning), round holes Speleoshoppe, 1979 286 168 89 17 254
507 Stubai Milled, hard anodized, blended triangular ears, oval to D top hole, triangular eye Speleoshoppe, 1995 104 114 95 10 108
347 TZ eight Milled, unfinished, stainless steel, Rectangular rope hole, long clip slot B&C Wunderwear, 1993 488 128 88 14 158
1031 Unknown Milled, hard anodized, oval rope hole, belay slot, round eye, side ears eBay, 2007 215 176 100 13 227
916 Ural Alp (20.01) Welded 10 mm. steel rod Ural Sport, 2002 252 123 90 10 111
948 Ural Alp (20.03) Welded 10 mm. steel rod, painted, crosspiece Ural Sport, 2004 300 123 117 10 144
987 Ural-Alp (20.05) Welded 10 mm. steel rod, painted, top post Ural Sport, 2005 289 148 80 10 123
961 Ural-Alp Self-Braking Descender/Belay Device, Version B Two bent Ni-plated Al sheets screwed together, sub-rectangular rope hole, round eye, ears Ural Sport, 2004 88 137 70 27 259
Deaf Eights Complex Eights

Weight Chart

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