I don't really like ears on
my eights, since the make the eight larger without really adding
anything. Some people think that ears keep the eight from locking
off in a girth hitch. I have three points against that. First,
if so, why are the ears in the wrong place? To see what I mean,
look at the DMM Anka,
which has the small ears placed in the right place. Second, if
you rig the eight properly, it is almost impossible for the girth
hitch to occur. Finally, even if it does, releasing it is trivial
- if you have the rest of your gear set up properly and know what
you are doing.
I get rather annoyed by the large number of badly-designed eights on the market. Instead of just copying each other, manufacturers ought to show some innovation. Look at the Morph 8 - now there is a new idea! It has its problems, but at least it shows some attempt at innovation. My own Open Eight is another innovative example, as is Tom Mayer's Lazy 8. The DMM Anka and the Faders Ballet have the right idea on where the ears should be. The Famau and Job are old exceptions that also put the ears in the right place.
If you want a good laugh, look at the weights of some of these
eights!
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| ID | Device | Description | Acquired | Weight | Height | Width | Thickness | Std. volume |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1141 | Advanced Base Camp | Milled, soft anodized, round rope & lightening holes, lunar eye | Kris Steele, 2008 | 242 | 174 | 171 | 13 | 378 |
| 936 | Aircraft Materials Ltd. | Milled, soft anodized, triangular ears, round top hole and eye | eBay, 2004 | 231 | 173 | 122 | 13 | 264 |
| 1149 | ASR Rescue 8 | Milled, soft anodized, subtriangular body, trapezoidal top hole and subtriangular eye | Alan Leach, 2008 | 273 | 162 | 162 | 13 | 339 |
| 922 | Austrialpin Eight Special | Milled, hard anodized, blended triangular ears, oval to D top hole, triangular eye | Barrabés.com, 2003 | 101 | 114 | 95 | 10 | 108 |
| 1157 | Blitz Safety 8 | Milled, hard anodized, subhexagonal rope hole, long slot eye, side ears | Tim Nolan, 2008 | 205 | 179 | 101 | 13 | 231 |
| 552 | Blue Water Rescue 8 | Forged, hard anodized, oval rope & lightening holes, lunar eye | GearPro, 1999 | 216 | 171 | 149 | 16 | 408 |
| 925 | Calma Antibloc | Forged, soft anodized, twin-bar shank, low ears, round holes | Barrabés.com, 2003 | 143 | 151 | 109 | 15 | 242 |
| 1158 | Climbing Technology Ltd. | Forged, soft anodized Al, lunar rope holes, oval eye, belay slot | We're Not Scared Safety, 2008 | 246 | 172 | 172 | 16 | 463 |
| 311 | CMC Rappel 8 | Milled, soft anodized, round rope hole, large vertical oval eye | Bob & Bob, 1990 | 158 | 132 | 140 | 13 | 240 |
| 309 | CMC Rescue 8, Version A | Forged, unfinished, steel, round rope hole, large vertical slot eye | L&S Sporting Goods, 1989 | 635 | 168 | 167 | 14 | 393 |
| 310 | CMC Rescue 8, Version B | Forged, painted, steel, round rope hole, large vertical slot eye | Bob & Bob, 1989 | 624 | 168 | 167 | 14 | 393 |
| 1027 | CMC Survivor 8 | Milled, hard anodized, triangular ears, round holes | CMC, 2007 | 44 | 73 | 71 | 10 | 51 |
| 314 | CMI Rescue 8 | Forged, hard anodized, oval rope & lightening holes, lunar eye | ? | 219 | 167 | 151 | 17 | 429 |
| 316 | DMM Anka | Forged, unfinished, 90 degree twist | Bob & Bob, 1987 | 188 | 142 | 84 | 47 | 561 |
| 927 | Faders Ballet |
Forged, hard anodized, bent, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, low ears | Barrabés.com, 2003 | 84 | 108 | 80 | 19 | 84 |
| 317 | Famau, Version A |
Forged?, unfinished, bent, rectangular rope hole /w spike, round eye | Pathfinder Sports, 1979 | 203 | 154 | 79 | 41 | 499 |
| 1061 | Famau, Version B |
Forged, unfinished, bent, rectangular rope hole /w spike, round eye | Craig Kubanoff, 2007 | 211 | 153 | 80 | 46 | 559 |
| 1140 | Fusion | Forged, soft anodized Al, lunar holes, belay slot | Yi-tien Tuan, 2008 | 260 | 171 | 171 | 16 | 455 |
| 319 | Handley Cool 8, Thin-walled | Welded 9.8 mm thin-walled stainless steel tubing, unfinished, irregular holes | B&C Wunderwear, 1991 | 108 | 158 | 164 | 19 | 492 |
| 320 | Handley Cool 8, Thick-walled | Welded 9.8 mm thick-walled stainless steel tubing, unfinished, irregular holes | B&C Wunderwear, 1991 | 173 | 126 | 141 | 19 | 338 |
| 1007 | Hugh Banner | Forged, unfinished, side T horns, round rope hole, auxiliary hole, and eye | Koen Viaene, 2006 | 149 | 123 | 116 | 13 | 181 |
| 595 | Hugh Banner Safety "8," Version A | Forged, unfinished, hexagonal rope hole, sewn 19mm x 3mm attachment sling | Cormier Mountaineering, 2001 | 156 | 145 | 108 | 13 | 199 |
| 1032 | Hugh Banner Safety "8," Version B | Forged, unfinished, hexagonal rope hole, trapezoidal eye | Christopher Wanless, 2007 | 140 | 141 | 109 | 13 | 193 |
| 564 | Interalp/Camp Job, Version A | Forged, unfinished Al, Oval rope hole, round eye, irregular slot, four lateral ears | Dirk Stoffels, 2000 | 199 | 171 | 100 | 34 | 581 |
| 1103 | Interalp/Camp Job, Version B | Forged, unfinished Al, Oval rope hole, round eye, irregular slot, four lateral ears | The Outdoor Outpost, 2007 | 199 | 174 | 100 | 34 | 581 |
| 933 | ISC | Milled hard anodized, oval rope & lightening holes, lunar eye | Marc Savinac, 2003 | 208 | 170 | 147 | 13 | 312 |
| 1022 | Kong | Forged stainless steel, dound holes, belay slot | Barry Duncan, 2006 | 446 | 140 | 129 | 16 | 285 |
| 561 | Kong Big "8" (805.04) | Forged, plated steel, lunar holes, belay slot | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 | 787 | 171 | 170 | 17 | 494 |
| 562 | Kong Big "8" (805.05) | Forged, unfinished SS, lunar holes, belay slot | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 | 822 | 171 | 170 | 17 | 494 |
| 563 | Kong Big "8" (805.06) | Forged, soft anodized Al, lunar holes, belay slot | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 | 265 | 171 | 170 | 17 | 494 |
| 1108 | Krok 8 Ear | Milled, painted, side T horns, round holes | PetrenkoWorld, 2007 | 139 | 151 | 99 | 10 | 154 |
| 1109 | Krok Inv Aluminum | Milled, painted, side T horns, round holes | PetrenkoWorld, 2007 | 126 | 132 | 109 | 10 | 149 |
| 1110 | Krok Inv Steel | Welded 10 mm rod, side T horns, subrounded holes | PetrenkoWorld, 2007 | 287 | 149 | 108 | 10 | 166 |
| 1144 | Krok SQU-EAR | Milled, painted, side T horns, pentagonal rope hole, round eye | gear4rocks.com, 2008 | 115 | 118 | 99 | 9 | 109 |
| 981 | Lazy 8 | Milled, offset irregular rope hole, oval eye, noncommercial | Tom Mayer, 2005 | 82 | 104 | 72 | 10 | 74 |
| 1097 | Mizo Jet Man Big | Forged 7071-T5, unfinished, side T horns, round rope hole, auxiliary hole, and eye | Mizo, 2007 | 145 | 122 | 116 | 13 | 177 |
| 1098 | Mizo Jet Man Small | Forged 7071-T5, unfinished, side T horns, round rope hole, auxiliary hole, and eye | Mizo, 2007 | 105 | 114 | 110 | 10 | 123 |
| 1099 | Mizo Jet Man Sus | Forged SS, unfinished, side T horns, oval rope hole, round eye | Mizo, 2007 | 467 | 136 | 121 | 14 | 237 |
| 532 | Morph 8 | Milled, unfinished, asymmetrical, one ear, noncommercial | Ben Schwartz, 1997 | 151 | 146 | 65 | 13 | 123 |
| 952 | Morph 8 Prototype | Milled, unfinished, asymmetrical, one ear, noncommercial | William Shrewsbury, 2004 | 144 | 146 | 67 | 13 | 124 |
| 322 | Munter Egg Mark 3 | Cast, unfinished, D rope hole, Rectangular eye, 4 round & 2 arced lightening holes | Eiselin Sport, 1982 | 219 | 181 | 124 | 10 | 224 |
| 583 | New England Micro Rappel Device | Forged steel, round rope hole, two rectangular eyes | Gearshop.com, 2000 | 150 | 92 | 52 | 10 | 46 |
| 904 | Petzl Pirana | Forged unfinished Al, asymmetric, three horns | Karst Sports, 2001 | 96 | 115 | 76 | 15 | 130 |
| 1021 | PMI Steel Rescue 8 | Milled steel, round rope hole, pear eye | On Rope 1, 2006 | 663 | 170 | 158 | 13 | 344 |
| 1114 | Quechua | Milled Al, irregular rope hole, oval eye, small ear nubs | Matthew Collings, 2007 | 91 | 122 | 75 | 10 | 92 |
| 935 | Rappel Rescue Systems Pro-Pak | Forged Al, hard anodized, partitioned oval rope hole, round eye, vertical ears, for kevlar webbing. | Alan Shelby, 2004 | 294 | 191 | 86 | 16 | 255 |
| 514 | Rappel Wheel, Version A | Forged & cut by hand from MS part 22940, soft anodized, 2 ears | Para-Gear (blank), 1995 | 356 | 150 | 150 | 16 | 360 |
| 515 | Rappel Wheel, Version B | Forged & cut by hand from MS part 22940, soft anodized, 4 ears | Para-Gear (blank), 1995 | 356 | 150 | 150 | 16 | 360 |
| 1132 | Rescue Q | Milled, hard anodized, round rope hole, subtriangular eye, side ears | Mark Hopkins, 2007 | 239 | 194 | 120 | 13 | 293 |
| 551 | Rescue Systems Inc. | Forged Steel, oval rope hole, sound eye, short belay slot, asymmetrical | On Rope 1, 1999 | 672 | 162 | 149 | 19 | 459 |
| 326 | Rock & Rescue | Milled, soft anodized, round rope & lightening holes, lunar eye | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1991 | 231 | 174 | 169 | 13 | 382 |
| 328 | Russ Anderson, Version A | Milled, soft anodized, round holes | ca. 1981 | 191 | 159 | 135 | 13 | 279 |
| 329 | Russ Anderson, Version B | Milled, soft anodized, round holes, slot | Speleoshoppe, 1982 | 177 | 159 | 135 | 13 | 279 |
| 334 | Russ Anderson, Version C | Milled, soft anodized, drooped ears. round rope hole, D eye | Bob & Bob, 1987 | 195 | 155 | 133 | 13 | 268 |
| 335 | Russ Anderson, Version D | Milled, hard anodized, drooped ears. round rope & lightening hole, D eye | Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1989 | 184 | 155 | 133 | 13 | 268 |
| 336 | Russ Anderson, Version E | Milled, unfinished, steel, dropped ears, irregular rope hole, quarter circle eye | ? | 648 | 180 | 161 | 13 | 377 |
| 342 | Russian, Version A |
Milled, soft anodized, tie-off horns, round holes | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1994 | 140 | 134 | 108 | 12 | 174 |
| 473 | Russian, Version B |
Milled, unfinished, two separate side horns, round holes | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990 | 86 | 98 | 82 | 11 | 88 |
| 492 | Russian, Version C |
Milled, soft anodized, side T horns, round holes | John E. Weinel, Inc., early 1990s. | 64 | 85 | 79 | 11 | 74 |
| 523 | Russian, Version D |
Milled, unfinished, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, two manufacturing holes | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1996 | 111 | 134 | 74 | 12 | 119 |
| 965 | Russian, Version E |
Milled, soft anodized, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 111 | 135 | 105 | 10 | 139 |
| 966 | Russian, Version F |
Milled(?) steel, painted, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 330 | 147 | 125 | 10 | 184 |
| 967 | Russian, Version G |
Milled, soft anodized, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 81 | 98 | 85 | 10 | 83 |
| 968 | Russian, Version H |
Milled, painted, round rope hole & eye | Ural Sport, 2004 | 79 | 94 | 81 | 10 | 78 |
| 969 | Russian, Version I |
Milled steel, painted, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 297 | 132 | 109 | 10 | 147 |
| 970 | Russian, Version J |
Forged, painted, side T horns, round holes | Ural Sport, 2004 | 172 | 153 | 98 | 13 | 193 |
| 971 | Russian, Version K |
Forged, painted, side T horns, oval rope hole, round eye | Ural Sport, 2004 | 189 | 155 | 115 | 15 | 259 |
| 972 | Russian copy of Petzl Pirana | Milled unfinished Al, asymmetric, three horns | Ural Sport, 2004 | 81 | 123 | 77 | 10 | 93 |
| 586 | Milled, soft anodized, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye | On Rope 1, 2000 | 143 | 120 | 92 | 13 | 142 | |
| 531 | SBCI Banditt | Milled, soft anodized, belay slot at top, lunar rope hole & eyes, round lightening hole | John E. Weinel, Inc., 1997 | 321 | 180 | 173 | 13 | 405 |
| 902 | SBCI Sidewinder | Milled, hard anodized, oval rope hole, long slot eye, side ears | Luke's, 2001 | 290 | 194 | 108 | 13 | 273 |
| 949 | Single Rope Technique R8B | Milled, hard anodized, Normal & low ears (for longhorning), round holes | On Rope, 2004 | 296 | 172 | 92 | 17 | 262 |
| 570 | Single Rope Technique R8Ba | Milled, hard anodized, low ears (for longhorning), round holes | Single Rope Technique, 2000 | 281 | 172 | 92 | 16 | 258 |
| 569 | Single Rope Technique R8La | Milled, hard anodized, truncated circular rope hole, belay slot, D eye | Single Rope Technique, 2000 | 311 | 176 | 159 | 17 | 462 |
| 568 | Single Rope Technique R8Sa | Milled, hard anodized, oval rope hole, D eye | Single Rope Technique, 2000 | 157 | 135 | 119 | 12 | 195 |
| 585 | SMC Personal Escape 8 | Milled, soft anodized,triangular rope hole, round eye | On Rope 1, 2000 | 48 | 72 | 70 | 10 | 49 |
| 344 | Smith Safety Products, Version A | Milled, hard anodized, drooped ears, round rope hole /w inner nubbins, round eye | ? | 211 | 168 | 150 | 13 | 328 |
| 958 | Smith Safety Products, Version B | Milled, unfinished, stainless steel, round rope hole & eye | N. Lester, 2004 | 614 | 166 | 152 | 13 | 320 |
| 1040 | Smith Safety Products, Version C | Milled, chrome plated steel, round rope hole & eye | George Stehle, 2007 | 618 | 167 | 155 | 12 | 321 |
| 1123 | Smith Safety Products, Version D | Milled, chrome plated steel, round rope hole & eye | Chuck Hoffmann, 2007 | 224 | 168 | 154 | 13 | 326 |
| 343 | Spelean Harpoon | Forged, unfinished, low ears (for longhorning), round holes | Speleoshoppe, 1979 | 286 | 168 | 89 | 17 | 254 |
| 507 | Stubai | Milled, hard anodized, blended triangular ears, oval to D top hole, triangular eye | Speleoshoppe, 1995 | 104 | 114 | 95 | 10 | 108 |
| 347 | TZ eight | Milled, unfinished, stainless steel, Rectangular rope hole, long clip slot | B&C Wunderwear, 1993 | 488 | 128 | 88 | 14 | 158 |
| 1031 | Unknown | Milled, hard anodized, oval rope hole, belay slot, round eye, side ears | eBay, 2007 | 215 | 176 | 100 | 13 | 227 |
| 916 | Ural Alp (20.01) | Welded 10-mm steel rod | Ural Sport, 2002 | 252 | 123 | 90 | 10 | 111 |
| 948 | Ural Alp (20.03) | Welded 10-mm steel rod, painted, crosspiece | Ural Sport, 2004 | 300 | 123 | 117 | 10 | 144 |
| 987 | Ural-Alp (20.05) | Welded 10-mm steel rod, painted, top post | Ural Sport, 2005 | 289 | 148 | 80 | 10 | 123 |
| 961 | Ural-Alp Self-Braking Descender/Belay Device, Version B | Two bent Ni-plated Al sheets screwed together, sub-rectangular rope hole, round eye, ears | Ural Sport, 2004 | 88 | 137 | 70 | 27 | 259 |

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©2008, Gary D. Storrick