Figure Eights

Many figure eights are pretty much alike, if you rule out the Rocksport and steel ones as too heavy and the CMI Ultra 8 as too small. Most of the shape variations really don't mean very much. My own Open Eight is an exception. I used to use hard coated forged eights. They lasted quite a while, then suddenly the coating would wear through and the eight wouldn't last much longer. I switched to milled plate eights because I felt that there was less chance of manufacturing defects, but I think this wasn't really a valid concern. I rarely use eights any more (now that I have some superb titanium mini-racks in the same weight range: too bad that these are available no longer), but if I did, the DMM Cardiac Arrester would be my choice - because it is so pretty and has such a neat name. Of course, it works as well as any eight.

As I said, all of the midrange eights are pretty much equivalent, but look at the extremes. Compare the size and weight of the CMI Ultra 8 with the Rocksport! For general use, I don't see any reason to choose an eight that weighs much more than 150 to 200 grams.

The earliest figure eight that I know of is the Fisher, Version A, which appeared in an advertisement in the June 1963 issue of Mountain Craft. The earliest figure eight appearing in the USA that I know of was one was sold for $3.50 in an Adirondack climbing shop in the Summer of 1965 (Bill Craig, Nittany Grotto News, XIV,1, pp.4-5). That eight was made in West Germany, welded from 1/4" steel rod, was 140 mm long, and had hole and eye internal diameters of 47 and 35 mm., respectively.

If you can help me get one of these West German eights, please please email me.

More thoughts and data on Figure Eights

ID Device Description Acquired Weight Height Width Thickness Std. volume
591 Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 Forged, soft anodized, teardrop rope hole, quarter circle eye Yucca Dune, 2001 93 128 74 14 128
1055 Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 (Notch) Forged, soft anodized, teardrop rope hole, quarter circle eye /w urethane eye liner Moosineer, 2007 99 128 73 13 123
1053 Advanced Base Camp Mini Forged, polished, round rope hole, oval eye Moosineer, 2007 98 115 70 14 112
915 Advanced Base Camp, Version A Forged, soft anodized, round rope hole, oval eye On Rope 1, 2002 106 132 74 13 129
1054 Advanced Base Camp, Version B Forged, polished, round rope hole, oval eye Moosineer, 2007 105 131 75 13 124
591 Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 Forged, soft anodized, teardrop rope hole, quarter circle eye Yucca Dune, 2001 93 128 74 14 128
1073 AustriAlpin Forged, soft anodized, round rope hole, oval eye AustriAlpin USA, 2007 106 132 74 13 127
304 Black Diamond Super 8 Forged, soft anodized, slight pear upper hole, pentagonal lower hole Exkursion, 1990 90 120 75 13 117
496 Blue Water, Version A Forged, soft anodized, round holes Canyon Country, 1994 131 142 72 15 153
1068 Blue Water, Version B Forged, soft anodized, round holes James & Bobbi Hyde, 2007 129 144 74 15 156
1089 Camp 548.00/01 (Otto Large) Forged, hard anodized, round holes Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007 123 146 76 16 177
1090 Camp 928.00/01 (Otto Small) Forged, hard anodized, oval eye Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007 102 131 74 13 122
959 Camp, Version A Forged, soft anodized, oval holes Michael Adams, 2004 97 114 68 15 117
1035 Camp, Version B Forged, unfinished, round rope hole, oval eye Mandatory Gear, 2007 102 131 74 13 130
1100 Camp, Version C Forged, unfinished, oval eye Kendall Chun, 2007 105 132 74 13 126
1101 Camp, Version D Forged, unfinished, oval eye Kendall Chun, 2007 106 132 75 13 131
301 Camp/Lowe Fungo Forged, soft anodized, keeper hole, arched rope hole, round eye Walt Pirie, 1991 97 122 90 19 209
498 Camp/Lowe, Version A Forged, soft anodized, oval eye Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 108 132 74 14 137
506 Camp/Lowe, Version B Forged, soft anodized, oval eye Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 105 132 74 14 137
497 Cassin, Version A Forged, unfinished,oval rope hole, round eye Rt. 51 Army Surplus 139 136 76 16 165
520 Cassin, Version B Cast, unfinished, twin-bar shank, round holes Exkursion, 1996 108 135 69 15 140
932 Cassin, Version C Forged, hard anodized, round eye Marc Savinac, 2003 116 136 77 13 135
1069 Cassin, Version D Forged, unfinished, oval rope hole, round eye Robert Southard, 2007 132 139 77 14 152
1128 Cassin, Version E Forged, ceramic finish, twin-bar shank, round holes Chris Christensen, 2007 110 138 70 15 147
1050 CH Forged, soft anodized, round rope hole, oval eye Beth Penick, 2007 103 132 74 13 124
302 Chouinard, Version A Forged, soft anodized,oval rope hole, round eye Skinny Skis, ca. 1979 146 136 76 16 165
303 Chouinard, Version B Forged, soft anodized, triangular rope hole Skinny Skis, ca. 1979 82 107 74 17 135
499 Climb High, Version A Forged, unfinished,oval rope hole, round eye Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 141 107 74 17 135
500 Climb High, Version B Forged, soft anodized,oval rope hole, round eye Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 142 136 76 16 165
305 Clog Large, Version A Forged, unfinished, round holes, sharp lower hole Teton Mountaineering, 1980 180 169 83 15 211
1045 Clog Large, Version B Forged, unfinished, round holes, semi-sharp lower hole David Mellor, 2007 209 169 83 14 202
1041 Clog Large, Version C Forged, unfinished, round holes, ribbed lower hole Edwin Crook, 2007 204 169 83 16 226
1046 Clog Large, Version D Forged, unfinished, round holes, smooth lower hole David Mellor, 2007 209 168 83 16 216
306 Clog Large, Version E Forged, unfinished, round holes Bob & Bob, 1990 192 167 82 16 219
307 Clog Small Version A Forged, unfinished, round holes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1989 139 144 75 17 184
308 Clog Small Version B Forged, hard anodized, round holes ? 138 144 75 17 184
312 CMI Standard, Version A Forged, hard anodized, round holes ? 111 (Worn) 136 73 16 160
313 CMI Standard, Version B Forged, hard anodized, round holes ? 120 137 72 17 168
1062,
1063		 CMI Standard, Version C Forged, hard anodized, round holes Craig Kubanoff, 2007 110 138 73 16 160
914 CMI Standard, Version D Forged, unfinished,round holes On Rope 1, 2002 106 136 73 16 163
1124 CMI Standard, Version E Forged, unfinished,round holes Larry Moore, 2007 119 138 73 16 164
315 CMI Ultra 8 Forged, hard anodized, oval rope hole, pear eye Skinny Skis, 1987 45 104 62 10 64
985 CT Ltd. Forged, soft anodized, round rope hole, oval eye Colmo Dwyer, 2005 103 130 74 13 125
510 DMM Cardiac Arrester, Version A
 Forged, hard anodized, cardiac rope hole, elongated D eye Naked Edge Mountaineering, 1995 116 143 82 20 235
1051 DMM Cardiac Arrester, Version B
 Forged, hard anodized, cardiac rope hole, elongated D eye Andrew Newns, 2007 124 144 84 20 243
513 DMM Standard, Version A Forged, unfinished, round holes Exkursion, 1995 109 141 74 14 146
984 DMM Standard, Version B Forged, unfinished, round holes John Gardner, 2005 127 144 77 17 191
582 Edelrid Petit-8, Version A Forged, soft anodized, oval rope hole, round eye Finnrappel, 2000 128 136 75 16 164
1091 Edelrid Petit-8, Version B Forged, polished, round holes Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007 124 146 76 16 175
544 Faders Forged, soft anodized, bent, curve top & v bottom rope hole, round eye Outdoor Exchange, 1998 69 104 80 19 158
924 Faders Classic Forged, soft anodized, round holes Barrabés.com, 2003 142 155 76 17 194
982 Fisher(?), Version A Welded steel rod, plated, teardrop hole & eye John Gardner, 2005 92 138 59 9 70
983 Fisher(?), Version B Hand cut bronze, oval rope hole, round eye John Gardner, 2005 143 107 73 9 70
1011 Fisher(?), Version C Steel, asymmetric, oval rope hole, round eye Andrzej Mistela, 2006 210 128 130 10 163
926 Fixe Supreme Forged, hard anodized, irregular rope hole, oval eye Barrabés.com, 2003 96 124 77 12 117
1012 French Gravity Equipment Forged, unfinished, oval rope hole, round eye Andrew Knoflicek, 2006 139 137 77 16 163
318 Frendo, Version A Forged, soft anodized, round holes Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1993 146 141 72 16 162
533 Frendo, Version B Forged, unfinished, triangular rope hole Eiselin Sport, 1997 77 107 74 17 135
537 Frendo, Version C Forged, soft anodized, round holes Eiselin Sport, 1997 114 135 74 16 160
988 Frendo, Version D Forged, soft anodized, round holes eBay, 2005 130 140 73 17 170
1033 Fusion Tiny 8 Forged, hard anodized, round holes Hao Pham, 2007 135 143 76 16 173
1034 Hugh Banner, Version A Forged, unfinished, round holes BentGear.com, 2007 127 146 76 16 179
1034 Hugh Banner, Version A Forged, unfinished, round holes Gareth Parry, 2007 128 146 76 16 179
1135 Kirnoz Welded steel rod, triangular rope hole, oval eye Gary Kirk, 2007 124 119 77 11 97
1086 Kong Forged, unfinished, round holes D. Novak, 2007 121 143 74 15 154
560 Kong "8" Classic (805.03) Forged, soft anodized, round holes Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 132 144 74 16 170
947 Kong "8" Classic, Version B Forged, unfinished, round holes Shawn Hinz, 2004 130 144 75 16 167
1044 Kong "8" Classic, Version C Forged, unfinished, round holes Spencer Schweinhart, 2007 120 144 74 14 151
559 Kong "8" Light (805.01) Forged, soft anodized, oval holes Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 99 115 72 14 116
566 Kong "8" Light Plus (805.02) Forged, soft anodized, oval holes, keeper eye Inner Mountain Outfitters, 2000 99 128 81 14 145
989 Kong "8" Light Plus, Version B Forged, unfinished, oval holes, keeper hole eBay, 2005 94 126 82 14  141
1047 Kong "8" Light Plus, Version C Forged, unfinished, oval holes, keeper hole Daniel MacKinnon, 2007 101 128 81 14 142
1125 Kong Classic Forged, soft anodized, round holes On Rope 1, 2007 112 139 73 12 124
321 Kong-Bonaiti Classic Forged, soft anodized,oval rope hole, round eye Repetto Sport, 1982 125 136 76 16 165
1106 Krok 8 Classic Milled, painted, round rope hole & eye PetrenkoWorld, 2007 109 140 74 10 106
1107 Krok 8 Square Milled, painted, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye PetrenkoWorld, 2007 99 127 75 10 95
994 Likin Milled, unfinished, pear rope hole, round eye, noncommercial Dr. Gary D. Storrick, 2005 142 152 76 13 152
923 Lucky Ecos Forged, soft anodized, round holes Barrabés.com, 2003 127 144 76 16 178
1085 Lucky Ecos Mini Forged, polished, oval eye R. Burdenyuk, 2007 105 130 75 13 124
1037 Lucky Face Forged, bent, unfinished, pentagonal rope hole, round eye The Outdoor Store, 2007 80 108 79 19 162
458 Lucky Geni, Version A Forged, hard anodized, pentagonal rope hole, irregular eye Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1994 110 128 69 16 141
1036 Lucky Geni, Version B Forged, unfinished, pentagonal rope hole, irregular ey The Outdoor Store, 2007 106 129 72 15 137
534 Mammut, Version A Forged, soft anodized, round eye Eiselin Sport, 1997 129 146 77 16 180
535 Mammut, Version B Forged, soft anodized, oval eye Eiselin Sport, 1997 109 132 74 14 137
1072 Mammut, Version C Forged, polished, oval eye  Benjamin Townsend, 2007 104 131  74 13 125
536 Mammut, Version D Forged, soft anodized, oval eye Eiselin Sport, 1997 101 113 68 16 123
1130 Mammut, Version E Forged, bent, soft anodized pentagonal rope hole, round eye Man Kim, 2007 81 108 79 20 166
909 Metolius Version A Forged, unfinished, subtriangular rope hole, round eye gearexpress.com, 2002 102 129 72 15 134
910 Metolius Version B Forged, soft anodized subtriangular rope hole, round eye gearexpress.com, 2002 103 129 72 15 134
1074 Omega Pacific Forged, soft anodized, oval rope hole, round eye Omega Pacific, 2007 105 131 74 13 127
323 Petzl D01 Forged, soft anodized, finger tab, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye KHS Sales, 1990 110 141 72 16 162
324 Petzl D02 Forged, unfinished, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye KHS Sales, 1988 101 124 72 12 107
325 Pierre Allain Cast, unfinished, trapezoidal rope hole, round eye Speleoshoppe, 1979 152 149 79 19 224
327
1146		 Rocksport Cast, unfinished, phosphor bronze, round holes Al Fincham, 1981 705 166 80 17 226
567 Russ Anderson, Version A Milled, soft anodized, round rope hole & eye, slot Chuck Rozner, 2000 149 160 88 13 183
1131 Russ Anderson, Version B Milled, soft anodized, round rope hole & eye Daniel Veelik, 2007 154 161 87 13 178
330 Russ Anderson, Version C Milled, soft anodized, round rope hole & eye, slot ? 139 159 87 13 180
331 Russ Anderson, Version D Milled, soft anodized, round rope hole, D eye ? 157 155 84 13 169
332 Russ Anderson, Version E Milled, soft anodized, round rope hole, D eye, round lightening hole 1989 153 155 84 13 169
488 Russian "Bubo" Milled, unfinished, round holes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1994 142 141 73 14 144
489 Russian, Version A Milled, unfinished, pentagonal rope hole, oval eye, two manufacturing holes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1994 111 134 74 12 119
963 Russian, Version B Milled, painted, round rope hole & eye Ural Sport, 2004 150 144 75 14 150
964 Russian, Version C Milled steel, painted, round rope hole & eye Ural Sport, 2004 286 136 73 11 104
501 Salewa Forged, soft anodized, keeper hole, round holes Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 94 128 80 14 143
919 Salewa Midi Forged, soft anodized, round rope hole, oval eye Barrabés.com, 2003 107 131 75 13 130
920 Salewa Mini Forged, soft anodized, round rope hole, oval eye Barrabés.com, 2003 101 114 68 15 120
337 Salic Forged, soft anodized, round holes Speleoshoppe 165 158 82 16 207
557 Simond Forged, hard anodized, round holes Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1999 120 142 74 15 158
1088 Simond Krokro Forged, hard anodized, round rope hole /w internal jaws, round eye Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007 138 143 74 15 159
921 Simond Petit 8 Forged, soft anodized, oval rope hole, oval eye Barrabés.com, 2003 106 115 69 13 104
1134 Singing Rock Forged, bent, soft anodized, pentagonal rope hole, round eye Susan Pattison, 2007 80 107 79 19 161
340 SMC Descent-Control Eight Welded steel rod, irregular rope & lightening holes, lunar eye KHS Sales, 1992 215 126 90 10 113
1020 SMC Mountaineering 8 Milled, hard anodized, pentagonal rope hole, pear eye On Rope 1, 2006 81 118 75 10 86
338,
975		 SMC Straight Eight, Version A Forged, hard anodized, pentagonal rope hole, D eye

Unknown, 1970s?

Harry Rogers, 2004

91 125 74 17 157
339 SMC Straight Eight, Version B Milled, hard anodized, pentagonal rope hole, D eye Unknown, 1970s? 95 126 75 10 95
341 SMK Forged, painted, round holes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1992 152 145 75 19 207
587,
588		 Snap Small Bottle Opener Milled, hard anodized, irregular rope hole, round eye

Cormier Mountaineering, 2001

Yucca Dune, 2001

88 118 80 10 94
589,
589		 Snap Large Bottle Opener Milled, hard anodized, irregular rope hole, round eye

Cormier Mountaineering, 2001

Yucca Dune, 2001

133 134 87 12 141
345 Storrick Stainless Welded stainless steel rod, pentagonal rope hole, round lower hole, noncommercial Robert W. Storrick, 1973 243 164 73 12 144
577 Stubai, Version A Forged, soft anodized, round holes On Rope 1, 2000 110 139 74 12 123
986 Stubai, Version B Forged, soft anodized, oval rope hole, D eye, keeper hole Marcus Warme, 2005 97 129 81 14 147
504 Trango, Version A Forged, unfinished, round eye Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 128 146 77 16 180
505 Trango, Version B Forged, soft anodized, round eye Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 128 146 77 16 180
503 Trango Belay 8, Version A Forged, soft anodized, teardrop rope hole, quarter circle eye /w plastic eye liner Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 84 125 71 10 89
346 Trango Belay 8, Version B Forged, soft anodized, teardrop rope hole, quarter circle eye /w urethane eye liner Exkursion, 1994 91 125 71 10 89
502 Trango Mini Forged, soft anodized, oval eye Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 96 113 68 16 123
524 Trango Penta Forged, bent, soft anodized, pentagonal rope hole, round eye Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1997 80 107 79 20 169
1060 Trillium Health + Fitness Forged, polished, round holes Scott Davis, 2007 122 146 76 16 177
1049 Troll Forged, soft anodized, round holes Graham Barrett, 2007 127 146 76 17 183
1145 Unknown Forged, unfinished, bent, curve top & v bottom rope hole, round eye Nick Oliver, 2008 70 106 82 18 158
944 Ural-Alp Self-Braking Descender/Belay Device, Version A Two bent Ni-plated Al sheets screwed together, sub-rectangular rope hole, round eye Ural Sport, 2004 79 130 65 29 241
349 Vertical Supply Offset 8 LT Welded 11 mm steel rod, unfinished, twisted eye, pear holes Vertical Supply, 1992 290 164 71 17 198
348 Vertical Supply Offset 8 LS Welded 11 mm steel rod, unfinished, bent, pear holes Vertical Supply, 1992 292 164 71 17 198
350 Viking, Version A Forged, unfinished, round holes Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1993 217 168 81 16 218
1130 Viking, Version B Forged, unfinished round holes Simon Whiteley, 2007 218 169 83 17 231
351 Wild Country, Version A Forged, unfinished, round eye Exkursion, 1990 78 146 68 13 97
1042 Wild Country, Version B Forged, unfinished, round eye Ralph Morvant, 2007 80 113 68 13 99
1102 Wild Country, Version C Forged, soft anodized, oval eye Catherine Molineux, 2007 78 114 68 13 99
1115 Zero-G Classic 8 Forged, polished, oval eye Cotswold Outdoor, 2007 107 132 74 13 127

 


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©2008, Gary D. Storrick