[ Top | Standard, Ver. B | Cardiac Arrester, Ver A | Cardiac Arrester, Ver. B | Return to Figure Eights ]
I acquired this eight from John Gardner in 2005.
The DMM Standard, Version A is forged from aluminum alloy. Mine is 144 mm. tall, 77 mm. wide, and 17 mm. thick. The rope hole is 51 mm. high and 51 mm. wide. The top center thickness is 12 mm. The shaft length and width are 46 mm. and 25 mm., respectively. The eye measures 26 mm. by 26 mm. My eight weighs 127 g.
The front of the shaft has "DMM" in raised letters, and the back has "WALES," also in raised letters
The DMM Standard, Version A is another typical example of a full sized, forged, aluminum figure eight. Except for being unfinished, this eight is essentially identical to Clog Small, versions A & B, the DMM Standard, Version B, and the SMK figure eights.
Version A is thicker than Version B. It has somewhat sharper lines than Version A, so it could be somewhat more "grabby" on some ropes, at least until it wears. The lack of a hard finish allows it to wear quickly. The eye is not designed for "Sticht" belaying.
[ Top | Standard, Ver. A | Cardiac Arrester, Ver A | Cardiac Arrester, Ver. B | Return to Figure Eights ]
I acquired this eight from Exkursion in 1995.
The DMM Standard, Version B is forged from aluminum alloy. Mine is 141 mm. tall, 74 mm. wide, and 14 mm. thick. The rope hole is 49 mm. high and 49 mm. wide. The top center thickness is 11 mm. The shaft length and width are 46 mm. and 25 mm., respectively. The eye measures 26 mm. by 26 mm. My eight weighs 109 g.
The front of the shaft has "DMM" in raised letters, and the back has "WALES," also in raised letters
The DMM Standard, Version B is a typical example of a full sized, forged, aluminum figure eight. It has smooth lines that give a smooth rappel, but the lack of a hard finish allows it to wear quickly. The eye is not designed for "Sticht" belaying.
[ Top | Standard, Ver. A | Standard, Ver. B | Cardiac Arrester, Ver. B | Return to Figure Eights ]
Cardiac Arrester,
Version A (#510)I acquired this eight from Naked Edge Mountaineering in 1995.
The DMM Cardiac Arrester, Version A is forged from aluminum alloy and then hard anodized. Mine is 143 mm. tall, 82 mm. wide, and 20 mm. thick. The Fungo has a distinct bend that accounts for the increased thickness; if flat, it would be 16.6 mm. thick. The rope hole is heart-shaped, 52 mm. high and 58 mm. wide. The top center thickness is 11 mm. The shaft length and width are 36 mm. and 26 mm., respectively. The eye measures 30 mm. by 21 mm. My Cardiac Arrester, Version B weighs 116 g.
The convex side of the shaft is stamped "DMM," and "AAA" is stamped below the top hole. The concave side of the shaft has "Wales" forged in raised letters.
The
DMM Cardiac Arrester is a another odd-shaped,
bent figure eight, but it is larger than the others. While
the others use the bent shape to provide a low friction option
in a shortened eight, the Cardiac Arrestor is a full sized eight.
I love this eight! Not only does it look cool, but it has the
best name of any descender I know. I've had mine for many years,
and the name still gets to me. Since the Cardiac Arrester works
just as well as any other eight, that is sufficient reason for
me to recommend it. The finish is hard enough to help make the
eight last longer, and the eye is long enough (30 mm.) to
use for a "Sticht" belay (left figure). The shape provides
for a smooth rappel. As with other eights, it can be rigged in
several ways; the illustration shows a fast (center) and standard
(right) rigging. There is one drawback, though: The eye is too
narrow to accept two full size locking carabiners side-by-side.
[ Top | Standard, Ver. A | Standard, Ver. B | Cardiac Arrester, Ver. A | Return to Figure Eights ]
Cardiac Arrester,
Version B (#1051)I acquired this eight from Andrew Newns in 2007.
The DMM Cardiac Arrester, Version B is forged from aluminum alloy and then hard anodized. Mine is 144 mm. tall, 84 mm. wide, and 20 mm. thick. The Fungo has a distinct bend that accounts for the increased thickness; if flat, it would be 17.6 mm. thick. The rope hole is heart-shaped, 52 mm. high and 58 mm. wide. The top center thickness is 12 mm. The shaft length and width are 36 mm. and 26 mm., respectively. The eye measures 30 mm. by 21 mm. My Cardiac Arrester, Version B weighs 24 g.
The convex side of the shaft has "DMM" forged in raised letters, and "ADD" is stamped below the top hole. The concave side of the shaft has "Wales" forged in raised letters.
Despite some noticeable dimensional differences, Version D
is functionally identical to Version A, but with the raised
"DMM," Version B looks better. I like the color
of Version A, but the blood red of Version B seems rather
appropriate.
[ Top | Standard, Ver. A | Standard, Ver. B | Cardiac Arrester, Ver. A | Cardiac Arrester, Ver. B ]
