Slotted "Sticht" Plate Belayers

The first belay plate that became popular in my area was the Salewa Sticht plate, so any plate with one or two slotted holes is generically referred to as a Sticht Plate, even though this isn't legally correct. The initial hesitation in using these plates (instead of a hip belay!) was soon overcome. I've switched to using a belay tube now, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a slotted belay plate instead.

Some of the belay plates are incredibly lightweight. They don't have much reserve metal to allow any substantial wear, so I would avoid them. Most of the standard plates have a large reserve and are not likely to fail under normal wear.

Sticht plates with springs seem to be easier to use and don't bind as much as the ones without; however, the spring tends to get caught on everything when not in use.

Slot length is an important factor in determining the friction provided by the device, so I've added a column giving the slot length(s) in millimeters. Remember, the slot lengthens as the plate wears.

I use the following criteria to decide whether to call something a Sticht Plate:

The device consists of a plate with one or two slots that accept a rope bight (for single rope) or two (for double rope).
When rigged, a carabiner on the seat harness or anchor captures the bight(s).
The device may have a spring attached to keep the device away from the rigging carabiner.
The plate is flat on the top and bottom (this eliminates the similar Slotted Block Belay Devices, although I bent the criteria by including the Cassin #217 and Kong Gi-gi here).

The early example that I use for comparison when I consider placing a device into this category is the Salewa Sticht plate. Some small examples like the REI 11/11 may also fit the written criteria that I use for defining a Tube Belayers, so I used my version of common sense to decide.

ID Device Description Acquired Weight Height Width Thickness Std. volume Slot Length

748 Advanced Base Camp Forger Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring, matches #774 Yucca Dune, 2001 83 63 63 45 179
29.2

774 Camp Forged Al, hardcoat, round, 2 slots, spring, matches #748 Barrabés.com, 2003 81 63 63 43 171 29.5

723 Cassin #217, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes Climb Max, 1999 64 94 54 11 56 46.1

865 Cassin #217, Version B Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007 62 94 53 11 53 46.1

602 Cassin #221.02 Forged Al, hardcoat, round, 2 slots, spring, matches Exkursion, 1993 78 64 64 50 205 29.2
30.9

697 Cassin #221.11 Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, matches #679 Exkursion, 1996 65 65 65 13 55 30.7

696 Cassin #221.12 Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring, matches #675 1996 85 64 64 50 205 30.9

603 Chain Link Welded steel rod 1970s 51 51 34 9 16 34.5

604 Chouinard 11 Forged Al, unfinished, single slot Skinny Skis, 1980 13 47 22 11 11 30.6

813 Chouinard 11/11 Forged Al, unfinished, single slot Mike Adams, 2005 20 44 33 12 18 27.0

811 Clog, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots John Vaartjes, 2005 58 63 63 15 57 29.4

837 Clog, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper Joe MacLeod, 2006 75 179 63 15 162 29.4

680 Clog Cosmic Arrestor Forged, unfinished, 2 slots Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 64 62 62 14 54 29.5

605 CMI Micro Belay Plate Forged Al, hardcoat, single slot John E. Weinel, Inc., 1988 11 47 25 10 12 32.9

606 CMI Micro Twin Belay Plate Forged Al, hardcoat, double slot John E. Weinel, Inc., 1988 16 40 39 10 16 23.8

868 CMI Rescue Belay Brake, Version A Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches Tom Vines, 2007 120 89 89 10 77 32.7

607 CMI Rescue Belay Brake. Version B Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches John E. Weinel, Inc. 114 89 89 10 79 37.0

608 DMM Betterbrake Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots 1990 69 64 64 14 57 29.3

831 GAB 9/11 Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer Todd Paris, 2005 96 66 66 48 209 27.4
32.4

798 GAB 11/11 Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots Rachel Boersma, 2004 63 64 64 10 41 30.4

678 Hugh Banner, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 32 46 44 13 26 28.4

662 Hugh Banner, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot, cable keeper Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1994 35 46 44 13 26 28.6

611 Hugh Banner, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, rod keeper Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1993 44 46 44 62 125 28.3

665 Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, spring Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 80 64 64 41 168 29.0

775 Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots Barrabés.com, 2003 59 64 64 10 42 29.0

814 Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots Marcus Warme, 2005 59 64 64 10 42 29.0

839 Kong Forged steel, plated, 2 slots Lorenzo Dotti, 2006 54 60 45 8 22 45.0

689 Kong Gi-gi, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1995 71 113 50 17 96 49.8

801 Kong Gi-gi, Version B Forged Al, soft anodized 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes eBay, 2004 66 114 50 16 91 50.0

615 MSR Belay Link, Version A Welded Al chain link Mountain Safety Research 22 53 36 10 19 34.5

876 MSR Belay Link, Version B Welded Al chain link, soft anodized Steve Hotchkiss, 2007 25 50 38 11 21 31.4

616 Mystery Origin 3-slot Device Forged steel, unfinished, 3 slots Ed Sira, 1991 115 99 498 7 345 34.0

854 Outside Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 2 keeper cord holes Graham Barrett, 2007 37 51 46 10 24 28.2
31.8

617 PBI Stamped? Al, hard anodized, single slot International Mountaineering 28 68 38 6 16 33.4

618 REI 11/11 Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots Recreational Equipment Inc., 1985 39 51 43 15 33 31.9

474 Russian, Version A Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990 88 110 67 10 74 38.8

493 Russian, Version B Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes John E. Weinel, Inc. 77 96 70 10 67 36.4

812 Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots S. Koch, 2005 64 66 66 10 44 27.5

851 Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots Jayme Trombly, 2007 65 61 61 10 38 27.5

790 Salewa Sticht, 9/11 Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot Mike Adams, 2003 61 67 67 10 45 27.0
32.2

891 Salewa Sticht, 11 Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot Jim Chaney, 2008 76 64 64 10 199 30.6

621 Salewa Sticht, 11/11 Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots 1974 54 61 61 10 37 33.0

849 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/9 Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer Gareth Parry, 2007 96 68 66 45 202 28.0

620 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer 1970s 96 66 66 48 209 26.8
32.8

826 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer Patrice St. Germain, 2005 98 67 68 42 191 26.8
32.8

855 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer Craig Kubanoff, 2007 98 66 67 46 203 27.0
33.0

827 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11 Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring & retainer Patrice St. Germain, 2005 108 65 66 46 199 30.6

844 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11 Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer Zak Ryersbach, 2007 86 64 67 44 190 31.7

623 Single Rope Technique BP1 Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots Raven Products, 1990 50 61 61 10 37 28.7

624 Single Rope Technique BPS Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots, screwed spring Raven Products, 1990 89 61 61 46 171 29.9

675 Trango, Version A Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring, matches #696 Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 80 63 63 48 191 28.9
30.9

679 Trango, Version B Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots, matches #697 Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 69 63 63 11 44 28.9
30.9

795 Unknown, 9/11 Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, keeper hole Shawn Hinz, 2004 60 58 60 11 36 26.8
32.2

681 Wild Country Brakeman Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 35 51 46 10 23 28.2
30.9

672 Wild Country Wired Brakeman Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper Exkursion, 1994 48 51 46 10 23 28.2
31.2

875 Zero-G ZBD Sprung Belay Plate Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring v 81 63 63 41 162 29.2
31.0

ID	Device	Description	Acquired	Weight	Height	Width	Thickness	Std. volume	Slot Length
748	Advanced Base Camp	Forger Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring, matches #774	Yucca Dune, 2001	83	63	63	45	179	29.2
774	Camp	Forged Al, hardcoat, round, 2 slots, spring, matches #748	Barrabés.com, 2003	81	63	63	43	171	29.5
723	Cassin #217, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	Climb Max, 1999	64	94	54	11	56	46.1
865	Cassin #217, Version B	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007	62	94	53	11	53	46.1
602	Cassin #221.02	Forged Al, hardcoat, round, 2 slots, spring, matches	Exkursion, 1993	78	64	64	50	205	29.2 30.9
697	Cassin #221.11	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, matches #679	Exkursion, 1996	65	65	65	13	55	30.7
696	Cassin #221.12	Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring, matches #675	1996	85	64	64	50	205	30.9
603	Chain Link	Welded steel rod	1970s	51	51	34	9	16	34.5
604	Chouinard 11	Forged Al, unfinished, single slot	Skinny Skis, 1980	13	47	22	11	11	30.6
813	Chouinard 11/11	Forged Al, unfinished, single slot	Mike Adams, 2005	20	44	33	12	18	27.0
811	Clog, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	John Vaartjes, 2005	58	63	63	15	57	29.4
837	Clog, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper	Joe MacLeod, 2006	75	179	63	15	162	29.4
680	Clog Cosmic Arrestor	Forged, unfinished, 2 slots	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	64	62	62	14	54	29.5
605	CMI Micro Belay Plate	Forged Al, hardcoat, single slot	John E. Weinel, Inc., 1988	11	47	25	10	12	32.9
606	CMI Micro Twin Belay Plate	Forged Al, hardcoat, double slot	John E. Weinel, Inc., 1988	16	40	39	10	16	23.8
868	CMI Rescue Belay Brake, Version A	Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches	Tom Vines, 2007	120	89	89	10	77	32.7
607	CMI Rescue Belay Brake. Version B	Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches	John E. Weinel, Inc.	114	89	89	10	79	37.0
608	DMM Betterbrake	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots	1990	69	64	64	14	57	29.3
831	GAB 9/11	Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Todd Paris, 2005	96	66	66	48	209	27.4 32.4
798	GAB 11/11	Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots	Rachel Boersma, 2004	63	64	64	10	41	30.4
678	Hugh Banner, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	32	46	44	13	26	28.4
662	Hugh Banner, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot, cable keeper	Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1994	35	46	44	13	26	28.6
611	Hugh Banner, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, rod keeper	Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1993	44	46	44	62	125	28.3
665	Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, spring	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	80	64	64	41	168	29.0
775	Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots	Barrabés.com, 2003	59	64	64	10	42	29.0
814	Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots	Marcus Warme, 2005	59	64	64	10	42	29.0
839	Kong	Forged steel, plated, 2 slots	Lorenzo Dotti, 2006	54	60	45	8	22	45.0
689	Kong Gi-gi, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1995	71	113	50	17	96	49.8
801	Kong Gi-gi, Version B	Forged Al, soft anodized 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes	eBay, 2004	66	114	50	16	91	50.0
615	MSR Belay Link, Version A	Welded Al chain link	Mountain Safety Research	22	53	36	10	19	34.5
876	MSR Belay Link, Version B	Welded Al chain link, soft anodized	Steve Hotchkiss, 2007	25	50	38	11	21	31.4
616	Mystery Origin 3-slot Device	Forged steel, unfinished, 3 slots	Ed Sira, 1991	115	99	498	7	345	34.0
854	Outside	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 2 keeper cord holes	Graham Barrett, 2007	37	51	46	10	24	28.2 31.8
617	PBI	Stamped? Al, hard anodized, single slot	International Mountaineering	28	68	38	6	16	33.4
618	REI 11/11	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Recreational Equipment Inc., 1985	39	51	43	15	33	31.9
474	Russian, Version A	Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes	John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990	88	110	67	10	74	38.8
493	Russian, Version B	Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes	John E. Weinel, Inc.	77	96	70	10	67	36.4
812	Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	S. Koch, 2005	64	66	66	10	44	27.5
851	Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Jayme Trombly, 2007	65	61	61	10	38	27.5
790	Salewa Sticht, 9/11	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot	Mike Adams, 2003	61	67	67	10	45	27.0 32.2
891	Salewa Sticht, 11	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot	Jim Chaney, 2008	76	64	64	10	199	30.6
621	Salewa Sticht, 11/11	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	1974	54	61	61	10	37	33.0
849	Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/9	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Gareth Parry, 2007	96	68	66	45	202	28.0
620	Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	1970s	96	66	66	48	209	26.8 32.8
826	Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Patrice St. Germain, 2005	98	67	68	42	191	26.8 32.8
855	Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version C	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer	Craig Kubanoff, 2007	98	66	67	46	203	27.0 33.0
827	Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring & retainer	Patrice St. Germain, 2005	108	65	66	46	199	30.6
844	Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer	Zak Ryersbach, 2007	86	64	67	44	190	31.7
623	Single Rope Technique BP1	Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots	Raven Products, 1990	50	61	61	10	37	28.7
624	Single Rope Technique BPS	Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots, screwed spring	Raven Products, 1990	89	61	61	46	171	29.9
675	Trango, Version A	Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring, matches #696	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	80	63	63	48	191	28.9 30.9
679	Trango, Version B	Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots, matches #697	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	69	63	63	11	44	28.9 30.9
795	Unknown, 9/11	Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, keeper hole	Shawn Hinz, 2004	60	58	60	11	36	26.8 32.2
681	Wild Country Brakeman	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	35	51	46	10	23	28.2 30.9
672	Wild Country Wired Brakeman	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper	Exkursion, 1994	48	51	46	10	23	28.2 31.2
875	Zero-G ZBD Sprung Belay Plate	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring	v	81	63	63	41	162	29.2 31.0