Self Belay Devices

Soloist, SoloAid, Silent Partner

SoloAid Prototype #1, SoloAid Prototype #2, SoloAid

NOTHING CAN MAKE SOLO CLIMBING SAFE!

Rock Exotica SoloAid

DON'T SOLO CLIMB!

The SoloAid was made for solo aid climbing as its name implies. I've used it for that purpose with some success. It appears to be fairly reliable in catching falls, and does not have the directional problems that the Soloist does. It does not require a chest harness. although it can be used with one (my preference, but to each his own). The rope must be fed by hand, so it is not a practical device for free climbing.

The SoloAid is now manufactured by Wren Industries. The SoloAid instruction manual is available from their site.

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Rock Exotica SoloAid Prototype #1

DON'T SOLO CLIMB!

In 2005, John Middendorf placed two SoloAid proptypes up for sale on eBay, and I purchased both of them. John wrote:

This is one of two SoloAids Rock made for me. .. They were the first two he made and do not have the engraved sketches on the side.

This prototype has a rougher finish than the other, and appears to have been made by manually-operated (not CNC) machinery, so I presume it is the first. The cam teeth differ from the second prototype and production model: they are "steps" that appear to have been cut with an end mill.

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Rock Exotica SoloAid Prototype #2

DON'T SOLO CLIMB!

The second prototype appears to have been made with CNC mcahinery, or at least well-finished if done manually. The cam teeth follow the same paattern as on the production model.

Rock Exotica Soloist

DON'T SOLO CLIMB!

The Soloist was designed for free climbing. It must be used with a chest harness as shown in the figure. The rope feeds smoothly enough for free climbing, but the Soloist has one serious drawback: it will not reliably catch a head-first fall. This means that certain moves, such as heel hooks, should not be attempted if there is any chance of the hands blowing. I don't trust myself enough to guarantee that I won't peel headfirst, so I never use my soloist.

The Soloist has a slot that allows it to be used for rappelling.

The Soloist is now manufactured by Wren Industries. The Soloist instruction manual is available from their site.

Wren Industries Silent Partner

DON'T SOLO CLIMB!

This is the device for roped solo. The climber ties a clove hitch around the spool in a specific fashion, and then climbs. The rope feeds smoothly, but if the climber falls, a centrifugal clutch engages and keeps the spool from rotating. I was on a waiting list for two years before I got my Silent Partner, and since testing it I've given up on using anything else.

This device works very well, but one must thoroughly review the manual before using it. Don't forget backup knots!! Remember, one mistake and the life you lose will be your own.

The Silent Partner is protected by U.S. Patent 4,941,548. The Silent Partner instruction manual is available from the Wren Industries site.