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DO NOT CLIMB SOLO! Nothing can make solo climbing safe. |
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Prototype #1 |
Prototype #2 |
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Production |
SoloAid Versions |
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Prototype #1 | SoloAid Prototype #2 | Soloist | Silent
Partner | Return to Self Belay
]
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DO NOT CLIMB SOLO! Nothing can make solo climbing safe. |
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The SoloAid was made for solo aid climbing as its name implies.
I've used it for that purpose with some success. It appears to
be fairly reliable in catching falls, and does not have the directional
problems that the Soloist does. It does not require a chest harness.
although it can be used with one (my preference, but to each his
own). The rope must be fed by hand, so it is not a practical device
for free climbing.
[ Top | SoloAid Prototype #2 | Soloist | Silent Partner | Return to Self Belay ]
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DO NOT CLIMB SOLO! Nothing can make solo climbing safe. |
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In 2005, John Middendorf placed two SoloAid proptypes up for sale on eBay, and I purchased both of them. John wrote:
This is one of two SoloAids Rock made for me. They were the first two he made and do not have the engraved sketches on the side.
This prototype has a rougher finish than the other, and appears to have been made by manually-operated (not CNC) machinery, so I presume it is the first. The cam teeth differ from the second prototype and production model: they are "steps" that appear to have been cut with an end mill.
[ Top | SoloAid | SoloAid Prototype #1 | Soloist | Silent Partner | Return to Self Belay ]
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DO NOT CLIMB SOLO! Nothing can make solo climbing safe. |
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The second prototype appears to have been made with CNC mcahinery, or at least well-finished if done manually. The cam teeth follow the same paattern as on the production model.
[ Top | SoloAid
| SoloAid Prototype #1 | SoloAid
Prototype #2 | Silent Partner |
Return to Self Belay ]
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DO NOT CLIMB SOLO! Nothing can make solo climbing safe. |
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The Soloist was designed for free climbing. It must be
used with a chest harness as shown in the figure. The rope feeds
smoothly enough for free climbing, but the Soloist has one serious
drawback: it will not reliably catch a head-first fall. This means
that certain moves, such as heel hooks, should not be attempted
if there is any chance of the hands blowing. I don't trust myself
enough to guarantee that I won't peel headfirst, so I never use
my soloist.
The Soloist has a slot that allows it to be used for rappelling.
[ Top | SoloAid | SoloAid Prototype #1 | SoloAid Prototype #2 | Soloist | Return to Self Belay ]
Wren
Industries Silent Partner (#717) |
DO NOT CLIMB SOLO! Nothing can make solo climbing safe. |
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This is the device for roped solo. The climber ties a clove hitch around the spool in a specific fashion, and then climbs. The rope feeds smoothly, but if the climber falls, a centrifugal clutch engages and keeps the spool from rotating. I was on a waiting list for two years before I got my Silent Partner, and since testing it I've given up on using anything else.
This device works very well, but one must thoroughly review the manual before using it. Don't forget backup knots!! Remember, one mistake and the life you lose will be your own.
The Silent Partner is protected by U.S. Patent 4,941,548.
[ Top | SoloAid | SoloAid Prototype #1 | SoloAid Prototype #2 | Soloist | Silent Partner ]
