Lever Box Belay Devices

The Petzl Grigri is a very popular belay device, the newer Trango Cinch is gaining popularity, and the Faders SUM may do the same with time. I think one of these might make a good choice for commercial climbing gyms and for certain big-wall climbing situations. They are each large and heavy when compared to a belay plate or tube, and they cannot be used for double rope rappels (at least not easily), so I seldom bother to carry one on trad climbing trips.

I use the following criteria to decide whether to call something a Lever Box Belay Device:

One rigs the device by opening it and placing the rope inside.
There is a control lever that operates a cam or similar device inside.
They can provide a "hands off" belay (but don't rely on it!)

The early example that I use for comparison when I consider placing a device into this category is the Petzl Grigri.

ID Device Description Acquired Weight Height Width Thickness Std. volume

858 Edelrid Eddy Forged Al frame, pivoting rope channel, spring loaded, hinged cover plate Mountain Gear, 2007 367 127 71 36 320

830 Faders SUM Cast Al frame, pivoting rope channel, spring loaded, hinged cover plate Devonshire Imports, 2006 254 138 65 33 295

887 Fixe Tapir Milled Al frame, milled pentagonal Al cam /w milled conrol lever, stamped pivoting Al cover Olivier Peron Caillet, 2008 273 120 76 48 431

626 Petzl Grigri Stamped frame, forged cam, spring loaded, release handle, single rope Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1992 225 118 68 43 345

802 Trango Cinch Cast steel body, milled Al cover, plastic handle, single rope Mountain Gear, 2004 180 75 73 34 185

788 Ural-Alp Ya-ya Al frame, 3 bollards, stop lever/w pulley, fixed anvil, folding handle Alvo-Titanium, 2003 278 160 96 38 584

ID	Device	Description	Acquired	Weight	Height	Width	Thickness	Std. volume
858	Edelrid Eddy	Forged Al frame, pivoting rope channel, spring loaded, hinged cover plate	Mountain Gear, 2007	367	127	71	36	320
830	Faders SUM	Cast Al frame, pivoting rope channel, spring loaded, hinged cover plate	Devonshire Imports, 2006	254	138	65	33	295
887	Fixe Tapir	Milled Al frame, milled pentagonal Al cam /w milled conrol lever, stamped pivoting Al cover	Olivier Peron Caillet, 2008	273	120	76	48	431
626	Petzl Grigri	Stamped frame, forged cam, spring loaded, release handle, single rope	Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1992	225	118	68	43	345
802	Trango Cinch	Cast steel body, milled Al cover, plastic handle, single rope	Mountain Gear, 2004	180	75	73	34	185
788	Ural-Alp Ya-ya	Al frame, 3 bollards, stop lever/w pulley, fixed anvil, folding handle	Alvo-Titanium, 2003	278	160	96	38	584