Belay Tubes

I like belay tubes. The rope runs smoothly, they dissipate heat, they wear well, they are small, and they don't cost very much. I used to prefer the Trango Pyramid (a Tuber) because it worked better on 9-mm ropes (it seems that everything works on 11-mm ropes) than some of the other belay devices, but when Trango introduced the Jaws, I'd found a new favorite belay device. The teeth significantly increase friction when needed. I no longer have nightmares about losing control while rappelling down my haul line. Still, these are belay devices, not long drop rappel devices. One of my former (now deceased) friends claimed that "there is more metal in a pop tab on a can of Miller;" probably an exaggeration, but it makes a point.

There are a lot of similarities between belay tubes. Two points that differentiate them are the slot length and the slot depth. The longer the slot length, the less friction the device has. The deeper the slot (up to a point), the less friction. Naturally, there is a trend for devices with longer slots to have shallower slots. Slot width limits the size rope that one can use.

I define slot dimension is defined in the obvious way. My definition for carabiner depth is more arbitrary, because it is based on the carabiner chosen. I measured this as the depth from the top of the slot to the top (outside) of a particular Omega oval. This is not only arbitrary, but more difficult to measure accurately than simple length or width (i.e., your mileage may vary).

I use the following criteria to decide whether to call something a Belay Tube: The devices that I placed in this category have two rope channels defined by a single piece of metal (this eliminates the Petzl Reverso and Petzl Reversino). Other than a keeper, they have no moving parts (this eliminates the Simond Toucan). Each rope channel is rather tall compared to the thickness of the side walls defining the channel (this eliminates the Slotted Block Belay Devices). The example that I use for comparison when I consider placing a device into this category is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller.

ID	Device	Description	Acquired	Weight	Length	Width	Height	Std. volume	Slot Length	Slot Width	Slot Depth
753	Advanced Base Camp ARC, Version A	Forged Al, hard anodized, plastic (covered cable?) keeper	Yucca Dune, 2001	60	53	46	101	244	33	14	16
847	Advanced Base Camp ARC, Version B	Forged Al, hard anodized, stiff plastic-covered cable keeper	Get Lost Adventures, 2007	62	53	46	84	204	33	14	15
754	Advanced Base Camp Brakeman	Forged Al, hard anodized, Al rod keeper	Yucca Dune, 2001	51	57	48	85	232	32	15	13
860	AustriAlpin	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, plastic covered cable keeper	AustriAlpin USA, 2007	58	53	46	102	247	33	14	16
676	Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller	Forged AL, hard anodized, plastic (covered cable?) keeper	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994	55	57	48	99	267	31	14	13
835	Black Diamond ATC-Guide	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, ribbed V grooves, carabiner eye, release hole, plastic-covered cable keeper	Mountain Gear, 2006	98	94	42	102	406	36	14	12
776	Black Diamond ATC-XP	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, ribbed V grooves, plastic-covered cable keeper	GearExpress.com, 2003	87	54	45	109	265	31	14	14
869	BlueWater	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, Al rod keeper	Mark McIntyre, 2007	49	57	48	83	225	32	15	13
667	BlueWater AirBrake, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 curved slots, cord keeper	Exkursion, 1995	48	55	48	19	51	34	13	11
857	BlueWater AirBrake, Version B	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 curved slots, cord keeper	Dan MacKinnon, 2007	46	55	48	19	50	33	13	11
717	Camp	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, cord keeper	Jeejo Climbing, 1999	46	53	46	101	245	33	14	15
867	Camp Lotus	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, double sided, double ribbed V grooves, plastic-covered cable keeper	Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007	103	65	47	107	326	34	13	23
760	Camp Shell	Forged Al, painted, 2 slots, plastic-covered cable keeper	K&R Adventure Gear, 2001	60	52	46	24	58	33	14	15
779	Climb Axe Max	Forged Al. Soft anodized, 2 slots, plastic-covered cable keeper	Climb Max, 2003	51	56	47	100	259	34	16	7
687	DMM Bug, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 curved slots, wire keeper	Exkursion, 1995	71	52	56	107	306	29	16	18
846	DMM Bug, Version B	Forged Al. hard anodized, 2 curved slots, plastic-covered cable keeper	Northern Mountain Supply, 2007	82	52	56	100	293	28	15	17
792	DMM Bugette	Forged Al, unfinished, wedge shape, 2 D slots, wire keeper	Shoreline Mountain Products, 2004	24	42	41	77	131	28	12	9
888	DMM V-Twin	Cast SS, unfinished, 2 slots, ribbed V grooves, plastic-covered cable keeper	backcountry.com, 2008	89	56	42	100	235	35	16	16
866	Edelrid Lotse	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, V grooves, plastic covered cable keeper	Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007	77	60	48	112	320	33	15	9
744	HB Marshall	Forged Al, soft anodized, Al rod keeper	Link Up Gear, 2000	49	47	38	82	146	33	11	17
695	HB Sheriff	Forged AL, hard anodized, soft plastic keeper	1996	59	54	48	80	204	32	14	13
699	HB Sheriff Rigid	Forged AL, hard anodized, Al rod keeper	Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1997	65	54	47	78	198	32	14	13
863	Kong Chuy	Forged Al. soft anodized, 2 slots, plastic-covered cable keeper	Outdoor Outpost, 2007	58	56	47	98	258	35	16	7
743	Liberty Mountain	Forged Al, soft anodized, Al rod keeper	Link Up Gear, 2000	51	57	48	83	226	32	15	13
838	Mad Rock Paradox	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, ribbed V grooves, plastic-covered cable keeper	Jim L. Rott 2006	69	61	45	106	292	31	16	10
799	Mammut	Forged Al, hard anodized, plastic covered cable keeper	Justin Tease, 2004	60	55	47	101	259	30	15	14
845	Mammut Fuse	Forged Al, hard anodized, plastic covered cable keeper	Eastern Mountain Sports, 2007	42	46	47	75	163	30	16	10
755	Omega Pacific SBG	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, V grooves, shank	Omega Pacific, 2001	56	50	44	63	141	39	18	6
764	Omega Pacific SBG II, Version A	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, V grooves, long shank	Mountain Tools, 2002	78	53	46	82	199	39	17	8
861	Omega Pacific SBG II, Version B	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, V grooves, long shank	Omega Pacific, 2007	78	53	46	82	203	39	18	5
745	Salewa Tubus	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, V grooves, wire keeper	Link Up Gear, 2000	79	60	48	112	324	33	15	9
841	Singing Rock	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, V grooves, plastic covered cable keeper	Alan Woodhead, 2006	73	60	47	111	314	33	15	9
715	Smiley's Atoga Prototype	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 3 lightening holes each side, rod keeper	Smiley's, 1999	50	56	47	84	218	31	15	15
716	Smiley's Atoga	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, rod keeper	Smiley's, 1999	50	55	47	83	212	33	16	15
852	Stubai	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, plastic covered cable keeper	Sarah Oldfield, 2007	58	53	46	99	241	33	14	15
700	Trango Jaws	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, V grooves, wire keeper	Nomad Adventures, 1997	78	60	48	113	327	33	15	9
842	Wild Country VC Pro	Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, ribbed V grooves, plastic-covered cable keeper	M. Hallet, 2006	65	56	45	95	237	34	15	12
879	Zero-G G-Spot	Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, plastic covered cable keeper	Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007	57	53	46	100	242	33	14	15
864	Zero-G G-Wedge	Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, V grooves, plastic covered cable keeper	Maximum Adventure Sports, 2007	73	60	48	111	316	33	15	9

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©2008, Gary D. Storrick