Hedden Knot
(a.k.a. Kreutzklem)

The Hedden Knot works nearly as well as Prusik Knot, but requires only one tuck. It is important to pass the sling through as shown by the arrows, since the opposite configuration (passing over at the top arrow and under at the bottom) will cause the knot to bind. It is also important not to tie the knot upside down, since its holding power is directional, but climbers often do so (adding turns to make up for the lost performance). The resulting knot is the Klemheist.


KnotHedden.html/070304
©2007, Gary D. Storrick